A few hundred metres from the seafront, amid the crêperies and other taverns, don't hesitate to bag a table at this charming, colourful place run by the proprietor of Le Donjon – Domaine Saint-Clair, a Michelin-starred restaurant in the upper town. Here, you can enjoy Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, starting with mezze (hummus/beef tataki, bottarga/kefta, aubergine or even ceviche with citrus fruit and fennel), before tucking into a superb piece of meagre, served with a vegetable tian and rosemary hollandaise. There is also a (small) wine cellar where you can purchase a bottle to enjoy here or take away.