Arthur Hantz, a self-taught chef who started out washing the dishes, has adopted a no-holds barred, complex-free approach and his modern bistro at the foot of Montmartre gets right down to brass tacks. The menu (carte or slate only) features a devilishly effective strategy: creative, vivacious, market-fresh cuisine with the odd Asian influence. A few examples: lightly seared cockles and scallops, pho emulsion, pimangue spice; free-range chicken, vitelotte potato crème, violet cauliflower, roast parsley roots, jus of milk-fed veal and toasted sarrazin.