The first of Isaac McHale’s restaurants is set in the ornate and rather glamorous former Shoreditch Town Hall. Chefs perform centre stage in the smart, blue-tiled kitchen – sit here rather than in the adjacent bar so you don’t miss out on the buzz.

Set menus – for which you must prepay online – are the order of the day, and these are tweaked constantly, since this is a kitchen fanatical about sourcing only top-notch seasonal British produce. Dishes are understated in appearance but offer maximum flavour; there is originality, verve and flair but combinations are always expertly judged and complementary. Seafood dishes are a highlight; don’t miss the deliciously juicy raw Orkney scallop, served with hazelnut, clementine and Périgord truffle.