Chefs Mark Berdin and Jennifer Bañagale are the drivers behind this operation, which began life as a mini counter in a market. Impressed? We are too. Accessed through the bar via a sliding door, this sushi sanctum hosts just eight diners per seating and feels like being wise to a wonderful secret. Fun and light-hearted, the chef turns serious when focusing on the food. 
The omakase opens with hot dishes and cool sashimi. This is food that's free-spirited, yet manages to honor classic methods with pacing that is on point. Rudderfish is dressed with tosazu gel; akagai exudes great flavor; and poached monkfish liver with dashi gelée is a balanced bite. Shirako, in a gently warmed broth and finished with Burgundian truffle, is both bold and intriguing.