Chef Nicholas Bazik and his team know exactly what they’re doing in this historic row house. In full view of the counter, they deliver a high-wire, high-stakes performance defined by precision, harmony and, of course, taste. Korean and French influences come and go with this elaborate tasting menu where special soys, vibrant oils and glossy sauces give wonderful dimension to pristine seafood and dry-aged proteins. Think Japanese tuna with whipped tofu, puffed sorghum and chili oil or brown butter hollandaise with country ham, caviar and cauliflower. The ideas are original, the flavors bold. Such creativity hews closely to the seasons, and even a salad can arrive as a revelation. All the while, service is seamless and warmly choreographed.