Restaurants could learn a thing or two from this eccentric spot in Old Town. There are no long narratives or spiels once you’re seated, and the menu shows no interest in trends. The sparse room is painted in a quirky purple with Japanese tatami tables on one side. Named after her mother, Chef Alexandra Holt just wants to cook — and cook she can. Not one to shy away from seasoning, she offers a small selection of dishes that prioritize flavor over fuss. Garlic scapes arrive buried under a mountain of ripe melon with sheep’s milk cheese running down one side. Delicate ricotta gnudi are set in a fierce Sungold tomato sauce. Does roast duck really need a wedge of Stilton? How many cherries does it take to cover coffee crème brûlée? Just go with it.