In this little village in the Vallée d'Aulps in the Chablais area, between Thonon and Morzine, what a surprise to find Breton chef Jean-Philippe Lemaire, who has worked abroad as well as in the region, notably at Le Clos des Sens, Le K2 and Le Farçon. Familiar with the Alps, of course, but also with Asia, he will win you over with his subtle, free-spirited cuisine. The dishes may give pride of place to the natural surroundings, but they also draw on the chef's memories of his travels, with nods to his native Brittany (eg churned butter with buckwheat or caramelised milk). Biscuit de brochet–sauce aigrelette; trout, courgette, marjoram, fish soup: refined simplicity dominates these immaculately presented plates, and the sauce boats are left on the table for you. In this imposing regional building, where you dine beneath the cathedral ceiling, there are also three guestrooms.