While globalism has reshaped the gourmet food scene, pockets of Europe remain where age-old dishes endure, untouched by fleeting trends. Major capitals may have embraced an international mix of flavors, but smaller towns and cities—like Split, Portorož, Ostend, Marseille, Ascona, Coimbra, Stuttgart, Córdoba, and Florence—are home to restaurants still dishing up regional comfort food from recipes straight out of the family cookbook, shaped by the bounty of readily available ingredients from surrounding farms, forests, and the sea.
Marseille, France for Bouillabaisse
The name for the famed Marseillaise spicy soup made from strained and sieved local rockfish allegedly comes from the Provencal term, boui abaissa, which, roughly translated, means “when it boils, we lower the temperature.” Some believe that the Greeks and Romans had their own version of fish stew; others believe that it began as a modest meal made by sailors from leftover fish scraps, or simply an idea invented by fishmongers to salvage their unsold wares. Traditional bouillabaisse has not only become the city’s emblematic pride and joy, but fleecing tourists with a cheap imitation is legally forbidden. In 1980, an official charter was drawn up with a strict list of basic ingredients that requires no less than four kinds of fish.
Where to try it:
At Chez Fonfon, a rustic-style wood-beamed local haunt in the miniature fishing port, Vallon des Auffes, the traditional thick broth is served in steaming bowls with a side dish of rouille, a garlicky mayonnaise-based sauce spooned onto croutons and gradually added to the soup. Expect a rich mix of at least four types of freshly-caught Mediterranean seafood—wrasse, weever fish, moray eel, and red scorpion fish—a variety of shellfish from spider crabs to langoustine, plus herbs, olive oil, potatoes, fennel, and tomatoes, flavored with saffron and garlic.
For an inspired take on the dish, head to Le Petit Nice, housed in a 1900s seafront villa, where Three-MICHELIN-Starred chef Gérald Passadat dishes up an innovative multi-course version that begins with a shellfish carpaccio in a clear broth and ends with an elaborate plate of local fish that live at the bottom of the sea.
Where to stay:
Marseille offers a diverse range of hotels, from Mama Shelter to Le Petit Nice, where the acclaimed restaurant is located.
Florence, Italy for Trippa alla Fiorentina
There are plenty of lively neighborhoods and internationally renowned museums to explore, but don’t miss a visit to the humming Mercato Centrale di Firenze, a covered food market filled with gourmet stalls, housed in an iconic Renaissance building.
A humble peasant dish, Florentine tripe dates back to the Middle Ages. The recipe continued to evolve throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, when markets or street vendors sold offal or less desirable cuts of meat to working class families. The dish has remained largely unchanged, calling for slow-cooked tripe in a rich tomato-based sauce, flavored with red wine, onions, carrots, and celery, and topped with grated parmesan.
Where to try it:
Situated in the heart of the city, restaurant Il Latini is a rustic-style historic trattoria, opened in 1911, and one of the best spots to taste trippa alla fiorentina, prepared according to the traditional recipe. Another restaurant that excels in homemade Tuscan specialties is the convivial eatery Zeb in the Saint Niccolo district, helmed by Alberto Navari and his mother, Giuseppina.
Where to stay:
Close to the famed market, at the Glance Hotel, or close to the Arno, at the Leone Blu Suites.
Split, Croatia for Pasticada
While Dalmatia is famed for its seafood, pasticada—a hearty beef stew—is a regional favorite. Originally a peasant dish, pasticada evolved with influences from local Romans, Venetians, and Austrians, becoming a beloved dish for special occasions. After the meat marinates overnight in mustard, vinegar, red wine, and rosemary, it's seared and cooked in a rich sauce combining chopped onions, carrots, parsnips, celery, tomato paste, and optional figs or prunes for a touch of sweetness.
Where to try it:
In Croatia, pasticada is a tradition that continues. Located outside the tourist center, the restaurant Šug serves copious portions of this traditional dish in a relaxed informal environment, and boasts an intimate outdoor courtyard in summer.
Where to stay:
A few minutes from Šug, Hôtel Luxe is known for its extravagance and elegance.
Portorož, Slovenia for Fuži
A traditional Istrian staple, fuži are Slovenia’s traditional handmade pasta. The small twisted tubes are topped with a variety of sauces, from long-simmered game meat to creamy wild mushroom or truffles. The origins of making pasta from scratch can be traced to nearby Italy, but the specific style of fuži flourished during the 19th and 20th centuries, along with the availability of fresh local ingredients. A simple dish, it requires just flour, eggs, water, and oil. The dough is rolled out, cut into thin strips, and twisted into spirals.
Where to try it:
At the refined beachside restaurant Rizibizi, the menu showcases the finest local products, like fuži, alongside fresh fish and seasonal truffles. Restaurant Sophia, located inside the Kempinski Palace, features an Italian-inspired ever-changing menu of Mediterranean dishes along with Istrian specialties (truffle fuži, fritaja sa šparogama, jota) and an exceptional wine list.
Where to stay:
Along the Italian border, Portorož is 20 minutes by car from San Canzian Hotel & Residences, a contemporary resort built on a village hill, with a spa and onsite restaurant.
Coimbra, Portugal for Arroz Doce à Moda de Coimbra
Portugal—which has the highest per capita rice consumption in Europe—uses the grain for appetizers, main dishes, and even a traditional dessert, arroz doce à moda de Coimbra. This creamy, cinnamon- and lemon-infused dish is a staple at regional wedding celebrations. In the past, newlyweds would offer to guests a tray of sweet rice covered with a traditional embroidered cloth from Almalaguês, in exchange for wedding gifts. Although it began as a symbol of unity and sharing, arroz doce à moda de Coimbra has become a staple at celebrations. Its origins date back to the sweet rice introduced by the Arabs to the Iberian Peninsula.
Where to try it:
Sweet rice is a classic dessert at O Palco ("The Stage"), a restaurant that reflects “the soul of the region” with a panoply of “actors,” from the owners to the local suppliers. With two tasting menus that include innovative spins on traditional dishes and a vegetarian option, O Palco also stands out for its sustainable commitment to locally sourced ingredients. Expect a zero-kilometer philosophy that lists supplier names and the distance from the restaurant—the rice, for example, is sourced just 45 kilometers away.
Where to stay:
Le Sapientia Boutique Hotel—although located in an 18th-19th century building, the interior style is decidedly modern. Close to the university, intellectuals regularly pop in.
Córdoba, Spain for Salmorejo
Salmorejo, one of the most emblematic dishes of Córdoban cuisine, is a chilled, creamy dish made with ripe tomatoes, bread, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, and salt. A variation of the more widely known gazpacho, it’s especially popular in warm summer weather. The name, derived from the Arabic word “salmur” (soaked bread) refers to the use of bread as a thickening agent. Over time, salmorejo has undergone modifications, additions, and improvements, and probably dates back to ancient times as a simple mash that the Romans called "moretum". The discovery of America and the subsequent introduction of tomatoes into its ingredients marked a significant qualitative and flavor revolution, shaping the dish we know today.
Where to try it:
La Casa de Manolete Bistró, where the chef, Juanjo Ruiz, a specialist in the dish, has created numerous variations—rumor has it he has developed over 600 different types of salmorejo. In one of his current recipes, the chef uses only ripe garden tomatoes and seasons the soup with mild purple garlic. The traditional garnish—chopped Iberian ham and hard-boiled eggs—is replaced with a quail’s egg, roasted peppers, and cherry tomatoes.
Other options include La Cuchara de San Lorenzo, Casa Pepe de la Judería, Casa Rubio, La Taberna de Almodóvar, and Taberna el Nº 10.
Where to stay:
H10 Palais Colomera is a hotel with clean, Scandinavian-inspired interiors, featuring a rooftop terrace overlooking the city’s famous Mosque-Cathedral.
Ascona, Switzerland for Brasato
Brasato is a rustic, slow-cooked beef stew, braised in red wine along with a variety of vegetables and aromatic herbs. A long-standing Swiss recipe, the lengthy cooking process tenderizes the meat and reflects the region’s rich viticulture heritage.
Where to try it:
At Locanda Barbarossa, order ravioli stuffed with brasato in a buttery mushroom sauce. Hide & Seek restaurant serves brasato as a hearty main dish combining roasted fillet and braised cheek of beef with celeriac purée and broccoli.
Where to stay:
Giardino Ascona, an elegant lake-side hotel with modern rooms, a spa, and serene indoor and outdoor pools.
Stuttgart, Germany for Zwiebelrostbraten
Zwiebelrostbraten, a traditional regional specialty of Swabia, is a slow-cooked tender braised beef roast made with the shoulder, neck, or rump, and topped with a rich sauce of crunchy caramelized onions that adds depth and sweetness to the flavor. The origins can be traced back to rustic cooking in Central Europe. Zwiebelrostbraten is a favorite for family celebrations.
Where to try it:
The Trautwein brothers run Zur Linde, a 300-year-old former posting house with a charming mix of historical and modern décor. The menu includes classics such as Swabian ravioli and veal tripe with braised oxtail, and a delicious zwiebelrostbraten, served with buttery onions and homemade spaetzli.
Where to stay:
Der Zauberlehrling, a boutique hotel in Stuttgart’s lively cultural district of Mitte.
Ostend, Benelux for Shrimp Croquettes
The city’s renowned signature dish is shrimp croquettes, made with tiny gray shrimp (“the caviar of the North Sea”), known for their delicate flavor. Freshly caught from Ostend’s fishing boats, this variety became particularly popular in Belgian brasseries at the turn of the century, and is still served as an appetizer with fried parsley and lemon. The croquettes are made with a rich shrimp-filled béchamel coated in bread crumbs and deep fried to a crisp golden brown.
Where to try it:
At the family-style restaurant Plassendale, a charming white house at the edge of a canal, and the modern Bistro Mathilda.
Where to stay:
Among several options with sea views, the Andromeda has a lovely spa. More recent openings include the futuristic C-Hotels Silt and the intimate six-room BONK suites, hidden away in the dunes.
Hero image: © Richard Haughton /Le Petit Nice
