Congratulations to Juhyun Lee, chef of Sushi Hyun and the 2025 MICHELIN Guide Vancouver Young Chef Award winner!
Designed to create the spirit and atmosphere of Japan, Sushi Hyun is an intimate experience. The word "Hyun" is drawn from the chef’s own name, and it can also mean “bright” and “positive,” which he hopes to radiate throughout the entire guest experience. Every detail is meticulously chosen to make that happen.
Recently, we spoke with him about his journey to becoming the chef he is today.
What inspired you to become a chef?
Since I was young, I carried a vague dream of one day having my own restaurant. During a language program in Canada, I encountered fusion Japanese cuisine, which led me to start working in a restaurant. Soon after, I developed a deeper fascination with traditional sushi.
The turning point came when I watched the documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” The meticulous care and focus that Ono Jiro devoted to every step of making sushi left a deep impression on me. At the time, however, I doubted myself—“Maybe I only feel this way because I don’t enjoy studying?” Because of that, I stayed away from sushi restaurants for nearly two months.
Yet sushi never left my mind; it even appeared in my dreams. Eventually, I decided to give it a real try. That first step became the foundation of Sushi Hyun today. From then on, my goal has remained the same: to serve sushi better today than yesterday.
What has your journey been like as a chef?
I’ve always had a hunger to learn and never hesitated to pursue it. With my family’s support, I trained abroad for six months, then returned to Korea and spent nearly two years in Gangnam’s fine-dining world. On my days off, I dined as a guest, setting my own standards for high-end cuisine. Today, I import my own kombu and katsuobushi from Japan to focus on the fundamentals. Every step of that journey shaped who I am as a chef.
What’s your favorite thing on the menu?
I feel a special attachment to two dishes.
First, tamago (gyoku). Even with the same recipe, the result changes depending on the ratio of whites to yolks, the temperature and the equipment used. It looks simple, but it requires patience, precision and care from beginning to end. It embodies the spirit of our philosophy: humble yet meticulous.
Second, kamameshi (rice in a clay pot). At Sushi Hyun, we prepare it in a traditional donabe crafted by Kumoigama Kiln, a pottery house that has been making ceramics since 1756. Donabe holds a unique place in Japanese culinary tradition—it enhances flavor in ways metal pots cannot, while bringing warmth and beauty to the table.
Kumoigama donabe is handcrafted from carefully selected clay, thicker and more durable than ordinary donabe, with a refined finish. Kamameshi cannot be rushed—it is prepared according to the guests’ pace, so it is ready at the perfect moment, warm and fragrant. We use freshly milled rice whenever possible, adjusting water and heat with care depending on the season and ingredients. For me, kamameshi is not just a dish, but the embodiment of patience, craftsmanship and the philosophy of Sushi Hyun.
What’s been your favorite memory at Sushi Hyun?
My most unforgettable memory is our opening night. Despite months of preparation, it wasn’t as smooth as I hoped, and I felt disappointed. Friends and colleagues kindly filled the seats, but I knew I had much to improve. I closed the restaurant for several days, refining our service and preparations to make it stronger.
When we reopened, the same guests from opening night returned and filled the counter again. Their support gave me immense strength, and they continued to encourage us throughout our first year. On our one-year anniversary, those very first guests returned once more to celebrate with us. That moment was deeply moving and reminded me that Sushi Hyun is not built by me alone, but together with our guests.
What motivates you in the kitchen?
I often look at Japan’s MICHELIN-Starred sushi chefs. Their quiet persistence inspires me to stay humble and keep improving. Sushi may appear simple, but the details are endless. Thinking of our guests—many who travel from far away—gives me strength. Sushi Hyun grows together with our guests, and that is my greatest motivation.
How do you motivate your team?
I remind my team: “This restaurant is not for me—it is for our guests.” I ask them to think and act from the guests’ perspective. It’s not about our convenience, but about making guests feel comfortable. Gratitude and humility are at the core of what we do, and I try to lead with that energy every day.
Why Vancouver?
I began cooking in Vancouver ten years ago. Here, I learned, grew, met my wife and became a father. At first, I didn’t think it had to be Vancouver. But over time, this city has become warm and familiar to me. Vancouver is not just where I work—it’s where my life and dreams have grown together.
Who would you invite to your restaurant who hasn’t dined there yet?
I would invite my grandmother in Korea. She is now over 90, and travel is difficult, but she has always been my mentor and supporter. She taught me kindness, generosity and gratitude even in our hardest times. If she could one day sit at my counter and taste my sushi and kamameshi, it would be the greatest honor of my life.
What advice would you give to young aspiring chefs?
Many people say, “Work hard, don’t give up.” That’s true, but I would add: stay humble, be grateful and never stop learning. Early in my career, I became skilled but also arrogant. Meeting more talented chefs showed me how little I knew, and that humility changed me.
This path is not easy. The hours are long, the rewards are small. But when a guest smiles and leaves happy after eating your food, it makes everything worthwhile. That simple joy has sustained me and will keep me going as a chef. I hope young chefs will grow with the same gratitude and humility.
All images courtesy of SUSHI HYUN OMAKASE / Sushi Hyun
