For nearly a decade, Chef Maha Barsoom has been introducing diners in Canada to Egyptian brunch. At the crossroads of many empires and centered around the Nile River, Egypt has cultivated uniquely delicious flavor profiles. Maha’s brings those traditions to a quiet residential neighborhood, where guests dine like pharaohs in homestyle comfort.
But before you eat like an Egyptian, check out what our Inspectors had to say here.
Dine like a king...or rather, a pharaoh. Guests at Maha’s enjoy Egyptian classics, tasting what pharaohs would eat in ancient times. Famous for its preservation of bodies through mummification, Egypt has many tombs throughout the country.
Chef Barsoom explains, “when [pharaohs died], they [buried] them with their favorite foods and dishes.” Researchers “found beans, onions, wheat, legumes and vegetables in those tombs. That's why it's a tradition that we eat fava beans, onions.” And so, Barsoom set out to champion the cuisine opening Maha's in 2014.
Those ingredients, when given Barsoom's magic touch, create magic on the plate such as the Cairo Classic, Egyptian falafel, and lentil soup. "The Cairo Classic is the most traditional," explains Barsoom. "I consider [it] the Egyptian breakfast table in one plate," she adds of the beans, falafel, boiled egg, cheese, and tomato dish that's mixed with tomatoes, mint, and extra virgin olive oil.
Other dishes are original creations from Barsoom taking cues from Egyptian cuisine but with a decidedly western bend—think date grilled cheese which has, “three different types of cheeses stuffed with dates and egg bread. ” Paired with a choice of Egyptian salad, lentil soup or cumin fries, it's the modern equivalent of a soup and sandwich.
Of course, the modern creations weren't the foods of the pharaohs, but Barsoom hopes her spot helps highlight how Egyptians dine today. “Egyptian cuisine is very unique," adds Barsoom. "When you think about the history, we had lots of influence from countries who occupied Egypt: the Turkish cuisine, French pastries and desserts, British High Tea. Egyptian cuisine is a big bowl of salad, a little bit of this, a little bit of that. You mix all together and create your own bowl of salad.”
It's the country's geography which helped shape its flavor profiles. “Egypt has the Red Sea from the east, Mediterranean from the north, and then the Nile running in the middle. And both sides between the Nile are deserts. So you find lots of fish, a little bit of meat, and lots of vegetables and legumes, because the line of the Nile River is where everybody's cultivating.”
It's Barsoom's Egyptian roots—she was raised there—and being surrounded by innovative and talented home cooks in her family that set her on her path. Going to the library at 12-years-old and checking out books filled with recipes provided her an escape and lessons in cuisine. “It was fun being in the kitchen with my mom, my dad. My dad was always encouraging me. [He] was a great cook,” says Barsoom of her mechanical engineer dad. "Whenever he comes home, he will do a special vegetarian dish made of zucchini, onions and tomatoes. I still can smell it now.” Her mother would make spaghetti, schnitzel, and watermelon feta salad. “My mom was very artistic. All these big platters of hors d'oeuvres, they look so delicious.”
Barsoom's move to Canada was to act as a translator and interpreter, but the call of the culinary arts still lingered. After serving her food to friends and family and work colleagues, Barsoom quickly launched a catering business followed by posting recipes online. Then in 2014, she was ready to open Maha's alongside her children.
Chef Barsoom’s kids Monika and Mark Wahba are core to the team. “All three of us worked together since day one. We complete each other.” Mark is in charge of beverages at Maha’s, which includes Egyptian Karkadeh hibiscus tea, carrot juice with nutmeg, and his special cardamom-infused coffee. Monika created a few new recipes, including the date grilled cheese and Egyptian falafel. Of the falafel, Barsoom says, “to cook the egg as soft as it is, and then wrap it with the falafel paste and then deep fry it with sesame seed, you have to be really careful. It's very delicate.”
Maha’s is the only restaurant in a quiet residential area. Chef Barsoom wants it to feel like her home. “I love to put my character into my place. The art is my sister's art. The photography is Monika's. Little knick knacks are from me, from Mark.” She adds, “Plants of course, because I love to garden. The sun hits the window in the morning and the whole place is very nice and bright.”
The music has Egyptian classics including ‘Alf Leila We Leila’ by Umm Kulthum. “It's all the songs I love. When I cook, I have to be in a good mood. To be in a good mood, I like to listen to my music. All these great singers from Egypt.”
With this positive energy, Barsoom creates “a place where people come to enjoy Egyptian foods and connect with each other.” Toronto is the perfect place to do that. “It's amazing. It's unbelievable. It's extremely multicultural. Any kind of cuisine you think of, you will find it. Very blessed to be in a country [and] city like that.”
With her MICHELIN recognition, Barsoom is living her dream. “I thought I was dreaming. I was all over the moon. I was so happy. It's such a great recognition. If you have a dream, you have to pursue it. I dreamt of [opening a restaurant] all my life. Keep pushing, and keep your thoughts positive. If you have something you want to do, just do it. It will happen.”
Hero image: Monika Wahba/Maha's
