Earning a MICHELIN Star is difficult (there are less than 250 MICHELIN Starred restaurants in the United States since 2005). It is so difficult, in fact, that many chefs and restaurants spend most of their lives trying to achieve the legendary accolade. To be awarded a Star, a restaurant must fulfill five universal criteria: the quality of the ingredients, the harmony of flavors, the mastery of techniques, the personality of the chef as expressed through their cuisine, and consistency both across the entire menu and over time.
Now, with the 2024 California MICHELIN Guide selection recently announced, there are three new Two Stars and seven new One Stars. Part of that list is Holbox (Previously Bib Gourmand), Rebel Omakase (Previously Recommended), and Hilda and Jesse (Previously Bib Gourmand); three restaurants that managed to catch the attention of our Inspectors and accomplish the unthinkable—achieving a MICHELIN Star in a year.
“We were so excited when we got the invitation to cook for the event,” Kristina Liedags Compton, chef/owner of One MICHELIN Star Hilda and Jess recalls. “There of course was the hope that the invite was for something more, but we went into the ceremony with no expectations.”
Below, we explore the journey of the three new One Stars, their reactions to receiving the Star, and how their restaurants have changed in the span of a year since their initial MICHELIN recognition.
Hilda and Jesse
Kristina Liedags Compton, Chef/Co-Owner
What was the idea behind Hilda and Jesse?
We dreamed up a place where we could do things differently from the restaurant cultures we’d grown up in. We envisioned a category-defying experience that executes at the quality of fine dining but casually flouts conventional assumptions. High caliber dining doesn’t have to be dinner only, and we loved cooking breakfast together — so why not offer an elevated experience during the day?
Who came up with the name?
Rachel, my business partner, and I came up with the name. Hilda was my grandmother and Jesse was her grandfather. They both lived with us for long periods of time when we were growing up. We liked the way their names sounded together although they never knew one another. Both would be shocked and touched to know that we named a restaurant after them.
What is the goal for Hilda and Jesse?
The goal for Hilda and Jesse is to be a great place to work and dine. A bit quirky, always outside the box, but always rooted in our team and culture. We want Hilda and Jesse to be a positive space for our guests and staff and we want to create a unique experience for everyone who walks through the door.
What was your reaction to winning a MICHELIN Star? What did the accomplishment feel like?
We were shocked and very excited of course! How could we not be?! It is such an honor to receive any recognition from The MICHELIN Guide. We feel validated in our choice to highlight our authenticity and quirkiness. We are grateful for the recognition. It is so nice to have something to celebrate during these tough times for restaurants in the Bay Area.
What was your biggest takeaway from being a MICHELIN recognized restaurant? How do you manage expectations after being included in the Guide?
Our biggest takeaway is that yes, what we offer at Hilda and Jesse is both different AND special—the food and the service. That what we do resonates with guests. That by being our true selves and honoring our values directly benefits the guest. A lot of the decisions we make with respect to food and service are rooted in experience but ultimately influenced by care, consistency and what, ultimately, feels right for Hilda and Jesse.
We show up every day as we have since we opened: Humble and grateful for every guest that walks through our door. We are excited to share our space, vision, and food with each and every one of them. We continue to do what we do and how we do it because it seems to be working.
What about the night of The MICHELIN Guide Ceremony? What was that like for you?
It was my first MICHELIN Guide Ceremony. I was just taking it all in and honored to be there to cook for the guests and chefs at the ceremony. It has definitely been a dream of mine since I started cooking but to win a Star was the cherry on top. Rachel and I were shocked and overwhelmed in the manner in which we were recognized. Being onstage together and receiving two awards was incredible.
When did it sink in?
I don't think it has yet, honestly. It will probably take a week of working and celebrating with the team and seeing our regulars at the restaurant before it becomes a reality.
How has the menu changed from last year compared to today?
The biggest change to the menu has been the introduction of the “Chef’s Adventure Menu,” available at both brunch and dinner. When we first opened, in addition to à la carte options, brunch had only one set menu: a 3-course tasting that was a carry-over from our days as a pop up. Dinner was ONLY à la carte. Today there are 3 dining options at Brunch: Chef’s Adventure, 3-Course Tasting and à la carte. We have found that guests appreciate the flexibility and often start with à la carte options and then progress to set menus once we’ve earned their trust.
At dinner, we now only offer the “Chef’s Adventure Menu," our 5-course, surprise experience. It changes seasonally, according to my whims, and the frequency of the guest. We change it for them each time they come, so they can join us as often as they choose!
The arrival of the Adventure Menu allows me to play around and focus on what I am excited about. It has given me the freedom to cook what I want and to step outside of parameters and expectations. I am extremely proud of where we have landed with our menus presently. I believe that I have finally found myself as a chef and feel confident with my food and I think it is better than it has ever been.
What are you most excited about right now?
I am excited to grow as a restaurant. To create opportunities and foster the next generation of chefs and leaders in the restaurant world.
I am excited to collaborate and create community. To figure out how to move the industry forward not only in terms of creativity but equitable wages and positive company culture.
What’s next?
Continue to push boundaries and blur the lines as far as what’s expected, “normal,” and “traditional,” in restaurants. Stay rooted in ourselves, celebrate the special place that we are and share Hilda and Jesse with as many people as possible.
We’ve been a well-kept secret for too long.
Holbox
Gilberto Cetina, Chef/Owner
What was the idea behind Holbox?
Holbox started as a side project to Chichén Itzá, our older sister restaurant which focuses on traditional Yucatan-style cooking. We envisioned it as an annex to Chichén Itzá, where we would only offer a small rotating menu of ceviches and cocteles. My passion for seafood, which started diving with my cousins on the beaches of Yucatan, quickly took over and the menu started growing. As I met more and more purveyors, I started tapping into the flavors across other coastal regions of Mexico, as the Yucatan can be fairly limited. We also began to experiment how else we could utilize the different parts of the seafood that may normally be discarded in cold preparations. The introduction of a wood-burning grill led us to create a two-sided menu: "Barra Fria," featuring raw seafood dishes, and "Cocina Cliente," showcasing wood-grilled entrees and seafood tacos.
Who came up with the name?
The name, Holbox, is a nod to the island near my dad's hometown of Colonia Yucatan. It represents not only my heritage, which formed the foundation of my concept, but also pays homage to my father, who taught me the craft and love for cooking.
What is the goal for Holbox?
The goal of Holbox is to introduce our diners to dishes that excite them with flavors and ingredients they may not have experienced but in ways that remain familiar. We have committed ourselves to using sustainable methods that utilize all parts of the seafood and partnering with ethical purveyors to provide the best product available.
When did you first learn about the MICHELIN Star?
I have known about the MICHELIN Star ever since I started my culinary journey learning from my father in our original restaurant, Chichén Itzá. It was always a goal of mine that I strived to reach by committing to using quality ingredients and creating a delicious dining experience for each guest.
What was your reaction to winning a MICHELIN Star? What did the accomplishment feel like?
I am so incredibly proud of not only what I have been able to accomplish, but what my team has as well. Their passion, creativity, and relentless commitment to excellence have made Holbox what it is today. I am deeply grateful for their support and proud to share this achievement with them.
How has the restaurant changed since receiving the award?
Holbox has always been and continues to be a work in progress. Receiving such a huge honor has changed my mentality about what we can achieve in our humble location. The limitations that I thought we had imposed on us by the casual nature of our establishment were erased when I saw us positioned alongside more traditionally set restaurants in the Guide. My team has taken endless pride in the work they do, knowing that we are amongst only a handful of restaurants representing Mexican cuisine at this level. It has confirmed what we have always known, that Mexican food, even in casual settings, is worthy of high praise when done with love and attention.
What about the night of the MICHELIN Guide Ceremony? What was that like for you?
It was very surreal as it was my first time being invited and attending. I was surrounded by chefs I have admired and looked up to as well as friends in the industry that I have worked alongside. It was a night to remember celebrating my fellow chefs and being celebrated by them.
When did it sink in?
It still hasn’t fully sunk in. I am on the move for the next few days with different collaborations and events, so it most likely won’t hit me until I’ve had a second to fully recognize the excitement and personal expectation that comes with this recognition.
How about the media attention? Were you expecting that?
We are so grateful for all the media attention we have garnered over the years, and we hope to keep building relationships with this additional recognition. This platform allows us to continue telling Holbox’s story and journey which started with my father and his legacy and has led me to where I am today and going in the future.
How has the menu changed from last year compared to today?
Since one year ago, our menu has changed due to the implementation of an in-house masa program with the addition of our house-made tostadas raspadas. We've started a fermentation program that includes both vegetables and chiles to create more complex sauces and dishes. We have greatly extended our network of fishermen allowing us to carry mainly local fish, aged in-house, on our ceviche menu. Our 8-course tasting menu continues to be focused and refined, allowing us to truly discover and express our unique identity and cooking style.
What are you most excited about right now?
About having this amazing platform to share our love of Mexican cuisine and local seafood with LA diners. I'm excited about continuing our work, right here at Mercado la Paloma in south LA.
What’s next?
I'm most excited about meeting new fishermen and purveyors to discover more of what our local waters have to offer and continue our Mexican seafood journey. We’re certainly also hungry to earn Star recognition from the team at Michelin and confident the restaurant will achieve the success as Holbox continues to be a platform for communicating both our history and our future.
R|O-Rebel Omakase
Jordan Nakasone, Chef
What was the idea behind Rebel Omakase?
This journey started 20 years ago when I used to work and live in Tochigi Japan. There are many things you process in silence; Japan is a very quiet country. You can only understand it if you know Japan.
Many ideas come from visiting other cities and countries. Watching art galleries, movies, abstract art, pictures, memories from childhood, reading interviews from movie directors, businesspeople, artists, watching documentaries. We constantly evaluate many industries and adapt them to our restaurant. Some of them work, some others don’t but we never stop. Rebel comes from being different but with style, smoothness, charm, and humility. You can be different in a unique positive way. That’s Rebel.
What is the goal?
Our goal is to keep growing and learning about food. The experience and service are very important, for sure we are focused on that, but our main goal is food. Food to me is the number one component. I come from a different background; I see things in a different way not expecting to be understood. New flavors, techniques, textures, plating, and more. I only think about how to make it better.
How has the menu changed from last year compared to today?
When I was about to open my mentor advised me to do what he taught me. Beginnings are very hard so don’t complicate it but go little by little until you find your own way. We always did our own style but then we started using new techniques, fish, and shellfish. We offer, for example, Murasaki Uni, a high grade of sea urchin. Kitchen equipment as Sous Vide, flavors that I discovered from other cousins like French. I would say we are constantly using new techniques, fish, and shellfish - around 30 different types of fish and shellfish every service.
What was it like becoming a MICHELIN Guide recommended restaurant? How has the restaurant changed since the inclusion?
It had a great impact; customers check the Michelin Guide and book with us. When you are a small business, every single achievement means a lot. These accolades are oxygen for us. We get more customers from different cities and states, and it pushes us to keep upgrading every single aspect. There is more pressure for sure, but we notice it is a positive thing, and couldn't be happier.
What was your biggest takeaway from being a MICHELIN recognized restaurant?
There is not a "was." I feel it is still the same sensation every day since that happened. I wake up and I really feel thankful because our concept is working, because a prestigious identity as the MIchelin Guide recognizes us, because we have many frequent customers, because we have staff members who come and work. There are so many things to be thankful for, every day. I think how blessed this restaurant is. Let's think about the ones that don't make it, that go out of business. I don't feel we are special but somehow, we get the recognition. There are so many people we have to thank.
How do you manage expectations after being included in the Guide?
We are very confident about the quality of fish and shellfish we offer. Our Japanese fish brokers are people who I know from many years when I worked in LA. I know very well how hard they work. We keep in contact on any holidays - Christmas, New Year, etc. If I contact them, they reply instantly no matter what - even when is after midnight. They are super hard workers.
We place our efforts on pleasing our customers with every detail and constantly thinking about how we can improve every single aspect. Expectations are high for our customers when they come to our restaurant, we are always aware of that.
Anything you would have done differently?
I have to say the personal life. We all have sacrificed our time and personal life for this. I have to give a special mention to my wife, Deborah. She had to sacrifice many things, personal, family, emotions. Without her this wouldn’t be possible.
What are you most excited about right now?
There are so many things. Again, we are always looking for improvement. My family from Tochigi in Japan is helping to get our new tableware and kitchen equipment. We are building a new menu for next season. But to be honest we are very excited about everyday things, having returning customers, having new ones, having our team, being located in such an amazing city as Laguna Beach with great people, being recognized by the Michelin Guide and more. It might sound simple but think about what if you don’t have any of those? Thank you all and special mention to God, we went through so many things not sure why but God keeps sending us strength, so we keep moving.
What’s next?
The industry moves so fast. There are so many things we need to track of, but one at a time, we will keep focusing on our customers because they are the only reason we can keep running the restaurant. This would be impossible without them.
Simple as that, we will come up with new ideas and flavors in order to make them happy. Customers are the kings!
Hero and thumb image: Marc Patrick / BFA.com | MICHELIN Guide California Ceremony 2024
