A food industry insider and a talented interior designer decide to join forces and transform a tired bed and breakfast. It’s not the plotline for a Hallmark movie—it’s the story behind sisters Allie Balin and K.C. Lager and The Wildset Hotel in St. Michaels, Maryland.
Allie Balin is no stranger to the food world. A sommelier, she’s also been a food writer and worked behind the scenes in several kitchens across the country, though she may be best known for co-founding Nashville’s much-lauded restaurant, Henrietta Red. Before opening its doors, she knew exactly who would design the space: her sister, K.C. Lager of KL Design Studio. It was Lager’s first restaurant project, and the first time the two worked together.
Fast-forward to almost a decade later and the two are the brains behind The Wildset Hotel, which is rewriting the rules on the country inn. “Once I did the restaurant (Henrietta Red), I wanted to do more,” says Lager. “I said that I would love to get my hands on an old hotel or bed and breakfast and do something different with it.” Her husband’s family has owned a home in St. Michaels since the 1970s and when the property became available it was kismet. “I’ve been coming here for more than 20 years, and I knew St. Michaels would be the perfect place to do this—utilizing our talents,” she says.
“We knew we definitely wanted to do a food and beverage operation,” says Balin. “It’s a huge draw for people to come for the weekend. You come here, have this great experience, and you don’t have to go far,” she adds.
Together with Lager’s brother-in-law, they purchased the property in 2019. “It was an old B&B owned by a lovely couple who wanted to retire,” explains Lager. “When we bought it, there was an indoor pool (where the restaurant, Ruse, is now located). We completely gutted the properties. There are eight rooms in the main building that we kept largely intact, but it was a full renovation. The only thing we added was when we demoed the pool area for the restaurant, we added two more rooms.”
They opened in the summer of 2021 with a whole new look. Any traces of a Victorian B&B have been replaced with a nuanced coastal chic. “I used a lot of influence from the history of the area—it’s so rich in history,” says Lager. “I also took inspiration from the soothing landscape, and that feeling that you get when you sit on our family’s dock.”
While plenty of guests are flocking from D.C., Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, and New York, the area remains tranquil. “The Eastern Shore is this hidden gem,” says Lager. “A lot of people don’t know what it is. They’ll say, ‘oh, the beaches,’ but it’s not. It’s totally different.”
The sisters’ first project together won’t be their last. Having different skill sets but similar interests has made the partnership work well. “I have a lot of interest in design and K.C. has a lot of interest in food and beverage, so it’s nice. We have each other to bounce ideas off,” says Balin. “We always wanted to work together, and it’s a huge benefit to work with family,” she continues. “I don’t know if I would do a project with anyone but my family. You can be very upfront with them, and say that you don’t like this, don’t want to do that. It benefits the brand as a whole.”
In addition to their sisterly bond, their female perspective brings something to the table too. “I think it’s everything,” says Lager, referencing how most of the people Balin hired at Henrietta Red are still there, eight years later. “That’s a testament to the culture that Allie created there and that’s what we’re trying to create at The Wildset. Taking care of the people that work so hard for us and do a great job. Coaching them. Not just treating them as employees but seeing them as humans with lives, different talents, etc.”
“Allie and her business partner (at Henrietta Red) were women. I’ve worked with a lot of women and bringing that female perspective into a place that it’s not always been makes your business thrive. Any time you have different voices, it’s a benefit for everyone.”
And, while running a hotel and restaurant are hard work, they find joy in the small things. “It’s just so great when you’re able to give people this experience where they get to relax, step out of their world, and enjoy themselves and the company of the people they love—it’s really rewarding,” says Lager. Balin agrees. “You get a lot of great people who are appreciative, see the vision and respect and connect with it. That means everything,” she says.
As for their next project, nothing is set in stone but they’re on the hunt. “It’s definitely something we’re looking at—all over and all the time.”
Hero image: Courtesy of KC and Allie
