Kiln

Industry veterans Chef John Wesley and general manager Julianna Yang have combined their talents at Kiln, where the warehouse space is warmed by personable service and the kitchen delivers artful creations. The tasting menu (either full experience of some twenty courses, or an abbreviated bar tasting) leans Nordic, highlighting preservation techniques like curing, drying and fermentation in dishes whose simplicity is belied by intricate techniques and compelling flavor combinations. Opening snacks like a crispy curlicue of puffed beef tendon and sweet potato starch with onion vinegar capture this ethos, while others, like a squab breast lacquered with burnt honey and served with a truffled jus, display a classical bent.