Tucked in a corner of Maruyama Park, renowned for its cherry blossoms, is Mizai. In the evenings, garden lanterns are lit. Chef Hitoshi Ishihara fusses over every detail: the ceremonial space is prepared, vessels are selected, and incense is burned. Emulating the form of the chakaiseki, service begins with a simple dish accompanied by freshly steamed rice. Sashimi assortments are lavish in portion; stews are served in bowls and plates that proclaim the season. Kogashi tea made from scorched rice, also follows the decorum of the tea ceremony. The tea ceremony spirit wafts from cups of strong matcha.