What a terrific little neighbourhood spot this is. A bar and restaurant rolled into one, start your visit with a drink from the concise yet quality wine list or classics-with-a-twist cocktail selection. Then turn your attention to the menu of small plates that showcase the kitchen’s unashamedly traditional approach with the likes of mince on dripping toast. Look out for the ‘Orbs of Joy’ – slow-braised Roscoff onions cooked in rich chicken broth – and save room for dessert, especially if that dessert is custard tart.