As one of the most long-standing restaurants in Abu Dhabi, Hakkasan is a household name when it comes to modern Chinese cuisine. The chef behind the first Hakkasan in the Middle East, Lee Kok Hua, is a veteran who has worked at Hakkasan for almost two decades: first six years in London, followed by 12 years in Abu Dhabi.
Lee, who came from a family of chefs, discovered his love for cooking through food carving when he was 17 years old. “I realised that a chef is not just a chef but also an artist,” he says, referring to cooking as a form of art. “I fell in love with the idea that I could express my love for the craft through the way I present my dishes. So, I went all in.”
On the heels of the inaugural MICHELIN Guide Abu Dhabi Star Revelation where Hakkasan received its first MICHELIN Star, the Malaysian chats with us about his culinary journey and what the recognition means to him.
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When did you realie you want to become a chef?
I think it’s in the family because my grandfather was a chef, my brother is chef and my brother-in-law is also a chef. My mother is a great cook who cooks amazing Hakka food.When I first started in the kitchen, I saw some chefs carving vegetables and fruits and got curious. I have always loved painting and carving. I was in awe with how beautiful the carvings are and asked them if they could teach me. They told me to observe, and I would practice on my own at night after work. That was when I realised that I can express my creativity in cooking.
What makes Hakkasan special?
Every corner of Hakkasan is well-thought-out. Interior wise, we use only the best materials in our design. Same applies to the produce we use—only top quality. Classic Chinese dishes are presented in a modern way, while the flavours remain traditional.
What are your signature dishes?
Our Cantonese dim sum, Peking duck, crispy duck salad, and jasmine tea smoked wagyu beef ribs.Tell us about your first encounter with the MICHELIN Guide, and what influence has it had over your career?
When I was working at Hakkasan London in 2003, we received a MICHELIN Star. At that time, I became aware that a certain standard has to be maintained in order to achieve a MICHELIN Star and it is by no means an easy feat. Since I moved to Abu Dhabi in 2010, I had been waiting for the MICHELIN Guide to arrive in the Middle East as I have always wanted a MICHELIN Star for Hakkasan.
That is why when I came on stage to receive the MICHELIN Star, I said: “The day has finally come.”
How did you feel when you found out Hakkasan was recognized with its first Michelin star?
We were very excited, the whole team was so happy about the recognition. But the pressure has slowly started to kick in as we know that we need to push harder in order to keep the MICHELIN Star and achieve more.Who was the first person you called when you found out?
My wife was next to me when Hakkasan was awarded One MICHELIN Star, so I called my family and siblings in Malaysia and they told me they are very proud of me.
How did you and the team celebrate?
We went to hot pot after work that day, and hosted a staff party in December to celebrate the achievement.In your opinion, what is the key to running a successful kitchen?
Principle is very important. At Hakkasan, we have many cooking stations, such as the wok-fry, barbecue and dim sum stations. Each station needs to meet the highest standard and maintain consistency—and that is our principle and promise to the customers.CONTINUE READING: First Day We Got Our Stars: Luigi Stinga of Talea by Antonio Guida
