A small shop curtain hangs in an alleyway in Gion. Trained in Tokyo on the sushi techniques of old Edo, the owner-chef welcomes guests with the Edo greeting ‘Irasshaimashi!’ Scrupulously sourced toppings are formed with slightly salty red vinegar, orthodox through and through. White-fleshed fish are marinated in kombu, gizzard shad in vinegar. Other offerings include stewed clam and conger eel. To draw out the aromas of each topping, the menu progresses from light- to strong-flavoured items.