MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Open and operating non-stop from noon until late night, this bijou is the casual sibling of Trois Mec next door. The narrow room is always full and the counter cramped, as four chefs display their skills before you, assembling such lovely dishes as pâté de campagne. And while the setting may not sound overly comfortable, there is a focus on service which makes every meal here a pleasant experience from start to finish. The French hip-hop in the background eschews tradition, but the cooking does the exact opposite. This menu is a canon of bistro favorites, like garlicky escargot in melting butter, steak au poivre and what may be the city's best omelet. Save room to indulge in desserts like chocolate mousse or rice pudding with salted caramel sauce.