MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Downtown Albany is abuzz about this chic arrival named for the mother and grandmother of Chef/co-owner Scott Eastman. It has all the accoutrements of a fancy local joint—think unique sculptures from an area artist, rustic plates and fun craft cocktails like the rum- and coconut-based White Picket Fence. And yet, this rookie eschews the tragically hip crowds for an easier, more communal feel. The roving menu is heavy on odes to seasonal produce, like a succotash of summer squash, corn and cherry tomatoes topped with flaky halibut. You'll also be able to taste the chef's nine years of cooking at Berkeley favorite-Corso-in his perfect veal Bolognese sauce. Creative, well-balanced desserts like a creamy banana custard with coconut granita are menu musts.