Agapes

This is a small neighbourhood bistro that hasn't been revamped for the purposes of Instagram. A young couple with impressive interstellar careers give free rein to their (delicious) inspiration: vitello tonnato, rocket, capers and meticulously seasoned parmesan; excellent duck breast, koshihikari rice, Japanese ume plums, and raw and cooked quetsches, with their bittersweet flavours; and for dessert, a deconstructed Bourdaloue tart that leaves no doubt about pastry chef Arnaud Darbas's credentials. Front of house, cordial, competent Virginie Béziaud has up her sleeve well-chosen wines from small winegrowers served by the glass.