Here at this serious counter-focused setting, find Chef Leonard Yu and his small team presiding over a multicourse experience that leans traditional while offering a nice balance of variety and seasonality. A smattering of otsumami begin the evening on a strong note with shaved Waygu beef lightly poached in sukiyaki sauce with a quail egg. The chef's signature dish, uni gohan with otoro, is decadent, while corn potage delivers an impressive depth of flavor. Meanwhile, nigiri showcases character without any flash: Kawahagi is topped with flash-frozen liver paste that melts on the tongue, while sharkskin sole with engawa is given a fantastic sear. Not to be outshined, vanilla ice cream is taken to new heights with the addition of aged shoyu.