Datuk Redzuawan bin Ismail, more affectionately known as Chef Wan, is the one and only, larger-than-life culinary icon and Malaysia's national treasure. With countless accolades and achievements earned spanning across decades, his journey through the world of food and cooking is nothing short of extraordinary.
As an international man of culinary, beloved for his candour and affable personality, Chef Wan spent his entire career life pouring his heart and soul into the F&B industry, taking on innumerable roles as Malaysia’s first celebrity chef, television host, brand ambassador, cookbook author, restaurateur, entrepreneur, culinary ambassador for Tourism Malaysia, and everything else in between, to name but a few.
“I’ve always seen myself as a person born with many passions because I want to do so many things. Until good becomes better, I never rest. I’ve always been like that, working until I perfect things.”
Beyond being a household name with global fame, his humble beginnings shaped a life deeply rooted in gratitude, compassion, and a love for people and his country.
Born and raised as a second generation Federal Land Development Authority (FELDA) settler in the rural village of Sungai Koyan, Pahang, Chef Wan came from a poor family but somehow grew to be an overachiever, a trait he attributes to his upbringing. “I didn’t have much growing up; I came from the dirt. That’s how I excel in life. From Standard 1, I served as class monitor, ranked top of my class, and became deputy prefect towards the end of my school years. I succeeded because I worked very hard and struggled a lot.”
“We didn’t have much growing up. My parents always taught me to be respectful, to give more, and to be content with what we have. That’s what I look for in life: happiness and contentment. When you have gratitude, everything else — compassion, empathy — just follows.”
A New Chapter at 60: The Restaurant Business
This might come as a shock to most, but despite Chef Wan's long-standing history and eventual success in the culinary world, he only opened his first restaurant at the age of 60 — 25 years after entering the scene as the chef and television host for Wanja and Chef Wan in 1993.
“People always asked me why I didn’t open a restaurant earlier. I always thought, why would I need a restaurant when I had multi-million dollar contracts for television? But my son convinced me. He once told me, ‘If you don’t want to do it for you, do it for me.’ And so, I did,” Chef Wan shares with a twinkle in his eye. “I also wanted to leave something to my two children (actress Serina Redzuawan and celebrity chef Muhammad Nazri Redzuawan, also known as Chef Riz) to pass down my legacy and recipes to the next generations to come.”
De. Wan 1958 saw its first outlet launch in April 2019 at The LINC KL, a 13,000 square-foot restaurant in the heart of Kuala Lumpur's city centre. The numbers 1958 in the name represent Chef Wan's birth year, while the flamboyant interiors reflect his gregarious persona. Back in the kitchen, every dish is vetted personally by Chef Wan, whose years of refining recipes of various cuisine types skilfully merges traditional Malay fare from across Malaysia with a gastronomic flair, while set against a modern, casual dining setting. From then on, the business has grown steadily, adding new brands to its portfolio. De. Wan 1958 at The LINC KL was recognised with a Bib Gourmand in the inaugural MICHELIN GUIDE Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2023.
For Chef Wan, running a restaurant is about more than just serving food: “It’s the experience that people come in for. And people like me, who want nothing but the best, attention to detail is very important, which is what always drives my team up the wall.” At this time, he would point out a dried-up leaf on a decorative plant restaurant spotted out of the corner of his eye during our interview, immediately asking his staff to have it tidied up.
The Culinary Connection: Bridging Souls Through Food
Chef Wan’s culinary philosophy is simple yet powerful: food is a universal language that connects people.
This mindset has led him to receive numerous honourable appointments from across the globe including Australia, New Zealand, and Thailand, with a worthwhile mention of the appointment by former Prime Minister of Malaysia, Tun Mahathir Mohamad, to serve Indonesia's President Jokowi. In 2009, Chef Wan won the Best Celebrity Television Chef of the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, one of the most prestigious awards in the cookbook world.
“In all my years of travel, food has been the bridge that connects me to people. Through food, you find love, friendship, peace, and respect for all human souls. It’s a universal love. When I see you, I see your heart, not the colour of your skin.”
Despite his illustrious career, Chef Wan remains grounded, always prioritising the authenticity of his cooking. “For me, authentic cuisine is about preserving the techniques and flavours passed down through the generations. You can't stray from how a traditional dish like asam pedas (spicy fish stew) or rendang daging (dry beef curry) should taste.”
Chef Wan laments that modern conveniences have led people away from the traditional methods saying, "People are no longer interested because they find easy shortcuts, preferring convenience over the hard work and sweat that go into authentic cooking. But our national heritage — the authenticity — needs to be preserved. I always say 'hilang budaya, hilang makanan, hilang bangsa' (loss of culture leads to the loss of cuisine, which ultimately leads to the loss of a nation)."
He takes pride in seeing his chefs master and even improve on his recipes. He believes Malaysian cuisine is deeply tied to heritage, passed down through the generations.
A Mother's Love and the Simplicity of Nasi Goreng
For Chef Wan, the taste of his mother’s nasi goreng is an indelible memory. His mother, Noraini Abdullah, fondly known as Cik Ani, passed away in January 2023 at the age of 93.
"My mother's nasi goreng... I still miss it. Growing up, it was a simple dish made with leftover rice, belacan (fermented shrimp paste), fish, and a bit of skilful frying. On many birthdays, when my mother couldn’t afford a cake, she’d ask what I wanted. I’d always say ‘just your nasi goreng.’ Even towards the end, when she was battling cancer and dementia, she still made the perfect fried rice for me. That’s how strong her love was,” he recalls.
This simple yet profound memory is a testament to the deep connection Chef Wan has with food, which has been a constant in his life. It’s not just about sustenance, it’s about traditions, stories, love, family, and the ties that bind people together.
Balancing Passion and Self-Care
In recent years, Chef Wan has faced some serious personal challenges, including his battle with cancer. This experience has given him a new perspective on life.
“After my cancer diagnosis and chemo treatment, I realised the importance of having quality time for myself. Sometimes, the pressure to build your brand and display a posture of success can be overwhelming. One thing I’ve learned is to step back and find rest.”
Nowadays, rest comes in the form of spending time with his 13 cats, gardening, and enjoying simple meals like pasta and hearty soups. These moments of tranquility are a stark contrast to his calendar-booked busy life he leads, but they are essential for maintaining his well-being.
The Legacy of Chef Wan
“My dream is to catalogue an encyclopaedia of our Malaysian heritage recipes. I am working on it!” he shares enthusiastically.
His story is a reminder that success and fame are not about individual fulfilment — but a social responsibility to carry on a lasting legacy, continuing along his life's journey to make an impact and create a difference that might reverberate through the generations to come.
De. Wan 1958 is located at Level 2-2, The LINC KL, 360 Jalan Tun Razak, Taman U Thant, Kuala Lumpur, 50400, Malaysia. Book your table via the MICHELIN Guide here.
