Comfortably nestled within a residential area right in the heart of Kuala Lumpur's city centre, Roti by d’Tandoor is spirited with a lively crowd for a Saturday evening despite its tranquil surroundings. Stepping into this standalone bungalow reveals a restaurant that pulses with the energy of a diverse crowd spanning generations, painting a vivid contrast to the peaceful neighbourhood.
"This location holds deep sentimental significance," reveals Afzal Malik, the Chief Marketing Officer and the second-generation-owner of this family-run business. "Around thirty-five years ago, my father, then a 19-year-old Abdul Malik, was operating a canteen at SSU Kelab Aman, the Selangor Sikh Union club where hockey matches were held. The club is situated just across from where it is now on Jalan Aman,” he says.
"In 2021, recognising an opportunity to introduce Roti by d’Tandoor, a younger, fresher sister brand to our well established d’Tandoor, we spotted this bungalow and knew it would be the perfect location. It's like completing a full circle," reflects Afzal, drawing a poignant connection between the historical roots of his family's business and the strategic evolution represented by this new establishment.
The d’Tandoor Group of Companies has been in the business for over 30 years as a pioneering force in Malaysian Northern Indian cuisine. Founded by Kol. Bersekutu (PA) Datuk Abdul Malik Abdullah and his wife, Datin Mumtaz Begum Mohd Sidek, along with co-founder Tan Hun Khim, the group owns 15 outlets, five sister brands, global franchises from Saudi Arabia to Australia, and a catering and event management arm. Currently the group is in the midst of launching a line of Ready-to-Eat Meals (RTE).
Second Time's the Charm
In 1989, Abdul Malik Abdullah and Tan Hun Khim, who were then just two young Penangites and former classmates, embarked on their journey into restaurateur-ship with the opening of Shikara, an Indian restaurant in Subang Jaya, a city in Petaling district. Their lack of business experience led to the venture's inevitable closure. Not one to take failure lightly, Abdul made his way to Singapore and then, to Australia, to gain valuable industry expertise while Tan pursued a career in textile manufacturing.
Reuniting again in 1993, Abdul, alongside his wife, partnered with Tan to once more, launch a restaurant venture now well-respected as the landmark establishment, d’Tandoor, in Damansara Utama. “Going into the restaurant business was the only thing we knew, the rest as they say, is history. We pioneered the introduction of upscale Northern Indian cuisine, setting a new industry standard,” recalls Tan. This marked the beginning of their success story in pioneering fine dining Northern Indian cuisine in Kuala Lumpur.
A Sensory Experience
To this day, Afzal's mother remains deeply involved in the recipe-making process. "All our recipes bear her homely touches, refined over the years to suit the local palate. Mughlai cuisine refers to dishes from the Mughal Empire — creations renowned for its opulence and aromatic spices. That's why for our masala and curries, aroma tantalises the senses even before it reaches the table," Afzal elaborates.
Butter Chicken Masala remains a perennial favourite and a beloved choice among patrons at Roti by d’Tandoor. “It's complemented by our light and fluffy naan bread, expertly baked in the tandoor ovens by chefs hailing from India, each undergoing six months of rigorous training,” explains Afzal. The secret to achieving succulent and tender chicken lies in the precise balance of cooking time, temperature, and the chef's adeptness in transitioning between the tandoor and the pan.
Another notable dish is their Lamb Shank Briyani. "The cooking of this dish goes in stages beginning with our claypots meticulously heated multiple times, akin to the process of seasoning woks. Upon reaching the right temperature, these claypots are then used to cook the lamb shank and rice infused with over 20 spices like clove, cardamom, fennel, and cumin. The pots are then sealed with dough to enhance aroma absorption," Afzal highlights. "Our briyani is generously adorned with nuts — cashews, pistachios, almonds, and raisins — and edible flowers." To complement its richness and heat, the dish is served with a cooling raita.
As a younger sister brand of d’Tandoor, Roti by d’Tandoor places particular emphasis on aesthetics and pop music to appeal to the younger demographic. Notable contemporary menu offerings include the Mac & Cheese Keema Mattar, Sourdough Naan, and even a Briyani Cake!
The Bib Gourmand Recognition
"When we learned about the launch of the MICHELIN Guide in Malaysia, we were confident that our brands would become a part of it," Afzal expresses enthusiastically. "As one of the few halal restaurants to be included, this recognition holds great significance for us."
“From its inception, Roti by d’Tandoor aimed to offer affordability, accessibility, and value for money through top-quality cuisine. Receiving the Bib Gourmand award validates our mission. Our team takes immense pride in this achievement as every tier within the organisation contributed tirelessly," Afzal enthuses.
When asked about the secret to their success, Afzal reveals, "We are a family-run business. My twin brothers, Amar and Amir, and I, learned the ins and outs from a young age: divide and conquer, that’s the key strategy, capitalising on each other's strengths, and maintaining a close-knit operation." Looking ahead, Afzal confidently states, "Our current goal is to reach the 50-year mark for the group."
All images are courtesy of Roti by d'Tandoor
