Le Kaila

French alpine hospitality generally sticks to the familiar — acres of knotty blonde wood, a roaring fire paired with a full-bodied red, retro millwork, the odd taxidermy specimen. It can feel as if there isn’t much that hasn’t already been said quite well. But the landscapes around here, not to mention the people, have their own style to spare, so the grand imported gesture would fall flat; and there’s a balance to be struck between kitsch-free vintage poise and smooth, contemporary minimalism. Also, presumably, you’re here to wear yourself out on the slopes, a pastime which calls for much coziness. Hotel Le Kaïla knows what to do.

To be sure, traditional touches in the rooms keep the décor grounded in its own idiom: muted chocolate and ivory tones benignly yield top billing to natural-wood accents, both polished and reclaimed. Sore legs and tipsy heads alike will love the comforting textures — expansive carpets, plush throws — as well as the jacuzzis and steam chambers in the bathrooms. All views are worth parting the curtains for, though a few extra floors wouldn’t hurt in terms of panorama.

L’Eskale ski shop boasts private slope access, plus a fine selection of brand-name accessories. From there, loosen up in the indoor pool, which somehow manages to feel like both an anthracite cave and a liquid sitting room, complete with a bank of bay windows. This being France, and part of the world’s largest interlinked ski system to boot, we’re hardly surprised (and nonetheless grateful) to taste the gastronomic prowess and formidable wine list at l’Ekrin. Après-ski options, too, hit all the right notes: quality cigars and cognac in the smoking lounge, live jazz and fireside bites in the bar.