Chef-owner Enrique Olvera’s seminal dining room has long stood as one of the country’s most famous addresses. This breezy, contemporary space is a constant hive of activity, thanks to servers dressed in sharp, black suits and a crowd eager to dine here. Some come for the taco omakase, but the culinary heart of this restaurant lies in the seasonal tasting menu. Tradition and invention go hand-in-hand in the likes of scallop ceviche with egg salad or grilled Baja coast rockfish with butternut squash puree and sherry foam. The savory progression culminates with mole madre, an effort like no other that celebrates Mexican history and cuisine in the most profound way. The wine list features an impressive number of regional vintners, some of whom bottle exclusively for the restaurant.