Palpable enthusiasm emanates from the chefs as they serve the dishes at this first-floor restaurant which overlooks the city's main pedestrianised shopping street. You enter via an unassuming door, before ascending a spiral staircase and being greeted by the chefs in their open kitchen. Sustainability drives everything they do and the team's pride in this is clear. The cooking is not showy or overcomplicated, but soars thanks to clever combinations and an ability to elevate seemingly simple ingredients like the humble potato to something truly special.