3 Nagas

You’d be hard pressed to find a hotel that serves up a richer helping of Luang Prabang’s Old Quarter appeal than this trio of UNESCO World Heritage buildings, situated at the epicenter of Lao culture. Formerly the late-nineteenth-century royal residence, the 3 Nagas have traveled quite the winding path over their century and change of existence: from mansion to ice-cream factory to their current incarnation as a stylish and contemporary boutique hotel. Recently restored under architect Pascal Trahan’s watchful eye, these buildings boast a wealth of period-appropriate details, including torchis plasterwork and traditional clay-tile roofing.

Inside, the trappings lend a palpably regal air — dark, exotic woods lend luster to the surfacing, while lofty ceilings accommodate luxurious, king-size four-posters. Traditional weavings and private terraces keep you in direct contact with the land, a resonant theme around these parts: when a riverside courtyard, an elephant park, and unreal cataracts wait just outside, you’d be a fool to opt for a cocoon instead. Put another way, they don’t bother with flat-screens here, instead offering complimentary bikes to visit local Buddhist shrines, nightly craft markets, and the famed tak bat almsgiving ceremony, featuring hundreds and hundreds of saffron-clad monks. You won’t miss the TV, we promise.

The style is necessarily a bit less stark and sleek — a bit more classic, but certainly no less chic — than the global boutique mean, but that’s no great loss given the mood and the extras. The staff have perfected that discreet, there-but-not approach that’s the trademark of high-end Far East hospitality. They’re happy to chauffeur guests in swanky vintage cars, and while this venerable property doesn’t include onsite spa or gym facilities, guests are entitled to use those at the nearby Hotel de la Paix.

And after all this, 3 Nagas is probably just as well known for its dining as for its rooms, which says something about the quality of the cuisine. Les 3 Nagas centers on upscale, organic Lao specialties in a cascade of earthy local ingredients. Finish with a Lao Lao Sling or rice wine moonshine at bar Mango 3; you’ll want to opt for al fresco seating beneath the (what else) mango trees if at all possible. But don’t linger too long, there’s exploring to do.

How to Get There: 3 Nagas Hotel is approximately a 15-minute drive from Luang Prabang International Airport (LPQ).