Once dubbed the ‘World Capital of Design’, Helsinki is anything but ordinary. With groundbreaking architecture, the Finnish capital sets itself apart from its Nordic neighbours through its buildings and atmosphere, and as much a part of that culture is Helsinki's ground-breaking gastronomy scene. It is little surprise then, that the city is home to two-thirds of Finland’s Michelin Stars and the country’s only Two Michelin Starred restaurant. Join us to explore the best of what one of Europe’s top cities has to offer, in true MICHELIN Guide style.
Day 1: The Old and The New
Morning
There are few capitals quite as compact as Helsinki, which makes it perfect for exploring on foot. Start your day with a stroll through Esplanadi. Affectionately dubbed “Espa” by locals, Esplanadi is Helsinki’s most famous park.Running east from the central district, Centre, the long, narrow park leads through tranquil gardens to the harbour. During the summer months, Esplanadi is always packed. Live music performances and street theatre make it reliably lively, and when there are no events, you’ll find students sunbathing under centuries-old trees and families pausing their games for picnics in the sun.
It’s well worth returning to Esplanadi later in the day to take it all in, but coming early gives a perspective most tourists miss. On a weekday morning you will catch fleeting glances of commuters rushing for their tram, but that aside, it is not uncommon to find yourself alone with just the trees and statues for company – something that can only be dreamt of in many capital cities.
One street south of the eastern edge of the park, nip into Restaurant Haven for your first taste of Finland. Situated inside Michelin-recommended Hotel Haven, they serve breakfast in the Sundmans’ Building, the second oldest stone building in Helsinki.
Suitably fed, walk north passing Havis Amanda, a 116-year-old statue depicting a nude mermaid. Continue for around five minutes to the Helsinki City Museum. A must on any visit, the museum is made up of five buildings, all from a different era of Helsinki’s past. Admission is free, but for those with a particular interest in history, it is possible to book a highly informative guided tour.
Lunch
A five-minute walk back to the northern perimeter of Esplanadi will take you to Michelin-recommended Bardot, a rustic French bistro which is the perfect spot for lunch. Taking its name from French actress Brigitte Bardot, their ‘menu du jour’ offers a simple, yet sophisticated take on French bistro classics. The décor will transport you back to a bygone era, which is perfectly contrasted by the buzzing atmosphere and relaxed service.
Afternoon
Just 100 metres along from Bardot, pay a visit to the Finnish Museum of Photography, located within the Kamp Galleria shopping centre’s basement. A nod to Helsinki’s pioneering design spirit, the ever-changing gallery depicts scenes from the city’s more recent history. Current exhibitions include 'We by Tuomo Manninen', a project highlighting a cross-section of city life 30 years in the making, and 'Untamed 90s', a collection of Finnish photography from the 1990s.Follow the street for around 10 minutes, passing the famous Swedish Theatre, a resplendent neoclassical circular building at the head of Esplanadi. The theatre was built in 1860 to replace Helsinki’s first theatre, the Engels Theatre, which was named after its architect: Carl Ludvig Engel.
Whilst his theatre may not have survived, just beyond the Swedish Theatre you'll find another of Engel's masterpieces: Helsinki Old Church. A common misconception of Helsinki is that its obsession with design means the city is populated entirely by modern buildings. Whilst it has no shortage of modern masterpieces, Helsinki has also done a sterling job of preserving those of yesteryear. The Old Church is one of the finest examples of this.
Completed in 1826, the Lutheran Old Church was only ever meant to be temporary. As Helsinki experienced rapid population growth in the early 19th-century, the city’s existing church couldn’t cope with the growing congregation. Plans were drawn up for a new, larger building, but significant delays in construction meant a quick solution was necessary. That temporary fix still stands today and continues to see use as a wedding venue. If you’re lucky enough to be visiting on a Tuesday, stop by at noon to enjoy an organ recital.
From the Old Church, walk one block north to Aleksanterinkatu, one of Helsinki’s best shopping streets. Once the city’s main east-west thoroughfare, the road is now dotted with designer boutiques, department stores and alfresco cafes. If you find yourself in need of refreshment as you head east along Aleksanterinkatu, Café Engel is the ideal place to pause. An ornate, cosy spot, the café occupies an old stone building dating from 1765 on the site of a former pipe factory. Their coffee and cakes are just as indulgent as the décor.
Just beyond Café Engel, it’s impossible to miss Senate Square on the left. Arguably the most photogenic location in Helsinki, the neoclassical Senate Square is home to a large number of government buildings as well as Helsinki Cathedral. Eventually completed some 26 years after the Old Church, it would seem fitting to pay it a visit. Dedicated to the Grand Duke of Finland – possibly better known as Russia’s Tsar Nicholas I – it too has a neoclassical style, and would look more at home in Moscow than a Nordic capital. Inside (entry is possible for a modest fee), the Russian design continues, with white busts and lavishly decorated domed ceilings.
To the east of Senate Square, stands the imposing Government Palace. Completed in 1822, the building serves as a home to the Council of State (the Finnish Government) to this day. Sadly, it isn’t open to the public, but a photo from Ritarihuoneenpuistikko Park is a must.
Aleksanterinkatu ends a few steps beyond the Government Palace, emerging onto Pohjorsranta, which hugs the coast. Walk north, keeping the Baltic Sea to your right until you reach the causeway leading across to Tervasaari. This tiny island was once used as a storage place for 17th-century tar merchants and later became a strategic defence post during the war years. Now, it’s the finest place in Helsinki to watch the sun set on an early evening stroll.
Dinner and Evening
After an intensive day of sightseeing, nothing can beat a simple yet flavoursome Finnish dinner. Bib Gourmand-awarded Bona Fide is a 10-minute walk inland from Tervasaari. Leaning more towards Nordic simplicity than the Russian extravagance we have seen so far today, its seasonal menu takes the freshest local ingredients and transforms them into delicious dishes. True to its Finnish roots, the atmosphere is relaxed, the service is friendly and the prices modest.With a reputation for its sophisticated, whilst lively, nightlife scene, a relaxed nightcap is the only fitting way to round off a day in Helsinki. Bar Maria, at nearby Michelin-recommended The Hotel Maria offers both elegance and relaxation. On a warm evening, take a seat on their comfortable patio and stargaze with your favourite tipple.
London by The MICHELIN Guide
Day 2: Suomenlinna
Morning
There are few occasions where starting your day by the water’s edge is anything but ideal. This morning, head to Helsinki’s main harbour, Kauppatori, a short walk from Esplanadi. For breakfast with a sea view, Allas Café & Terrace is the place to go. Overlooking the harbour, this casual spot is ideal for a healthy Nordic breakfast of pastries, fruits and fresh juices.Kauppatori Ferry Terminal, where you can catch a ferry to Suomenlinna, is just a couple of minutes’ walk away. Ferries run up to four times per hour (schedules vary by season) and complete the crossing in just 15 minutes.
Suomenlinna is an archipelago of eight islands sitting around two-and-a-half miles out into the Gulf of Finland. Their position at the head of Helsinki Bay has made them an invaluable natural defence over the years and six of the islands have been fortified. Originally built by the Swedish in the 18th-century to protect Helsinki from Russian invasion, when Russia broke through the defences and laid claim to Finland, they fortified Suomenlinna even further. Following Finnish independence in 1917, the islands became a prisoner of war camp before finally being handed to civilian control in 1973. Today, whilst home to around 900 residents, the islands serve mainly as a tourist attraction.
On disembarking the ferry on Iso Mustasaari, turn left and cross the short bridge to the island of Susisaari, the largest of the islands. Follow the fortified coastal walls to Submarine Vesikko, a restored 1930s submarine now open to the public. Continuing around the walls, you’ll reach King’s Gate, an 18th-century gate with a wide staircase leading down to the water. At the southern tip of the island, take a look inside Kustaanmiekka Fort.
Working your way back up Susisaari’s west coast, pause overlooking Sveaborgs Badstrand, a serene cove with steps leading down to a small sandy beach.
Lunch
Heading back towards the ferry terminal, Alderfelt is a hit with the locals. Set in a traditional wood-panelled building, its traditional menu champions local produce. Cafe Bar Valimo is another (seasonally opening) local favourite. Set against a backdrop of yachts bobbing about in the pleasure harbour, it has a heavy focus on vegan and vegetarian dishes.
Afternoon
Suitably fed, cross the bridge once more back to Iso Mustasaari to visit the Military Museum of Manège. Overseen by Finland’s main Military Museum, this informative museum manages to pack a surprising amount into a small space. Focusing on the period following the declaration of an independent Finland, exhibits include tanks, guns, uniforms and memorabilia.Heading towards the island’s east coast, pay a visit to Suomenlinna Toy Museum, which displays a fascinating collection of children’s toys from the era of Russian occupation. Continue your journey through the fortified island to the northern tip, passing one of the few signs of modern life here: Suomenlinna Lower School.
At the island’s northern tip, make a stop at Suomenlinna Brewery, a craft brewhouse set in a 19th-century barracks. Beer has been brewed here since the Swedes built the barracks in 1868, and that tradition proudly continues today with six house brews available on tap. To learn more about the history of brewing on Suomenlinna, it is possible to arrange a tour and tasting in advance.
Dinner and Evening
There is no rush to head back to the mainland, as ferries operate until 3am, but the ideal time to sail is at sundown, as this provides the best views of the archipelago and city.For your final meal in Helsinki, Finland’s only Two Michelin Starred restaurant is just a five-minute walk from the Kauppatori Ferry Terminal. Palace sits on the 10th floor of one of Helsinki’s less-easy-on-the-eye buildings. Constructed for the 1952 Helsinki Olympics, the view from the inside more than makes up for that from the outside. The six course tasting menu showcases modern Finnish cuisine and changes seasonally to reflect the best in local produce. Wine or non-alcoholic beverage pairings are available, and a vegetarian menu can be arranged upon request.
To round off your time in Helsinki in style, take the short walk to Hotel F6. Alongside its 76 swish and stylish rooms, their cocktail bar, Runar, is the star of the show. Named after the owner’s family dog, the bar is the perfect spot to enjoy handcrafted cocktails garnished with herbs from their own garden.
Address Book
Alderfelt: Suomenlinna, B 1, 00190 HelsinkiAllas Café & Terrace: Katajanokanlaituri 2 A, 00160 Helsinki
Cafe Bar Valimo: Suomenlinna B 13, 00190 Helsinki
Café Engel: Aleksanterinkatu 26, 00170 Helsinki
Finnish Museum of Photography: Kämp Galleria, Mikonkatu 1, 00100 Helsinki
Government Palace: Snellmaninkatu 1, 00023 Helsinki
Helsinki Cathedral: Unioninkatu 29, 00170 Helsinki
Helsinki City Museum: Aleksanterinkatu 16-18, 00170 Helsinki
Helsinki Old Church: Lönnrotinkatu 6, 00120 Helsinki
Kauppatori Ferry Terminal: 00170 Helsinki
King’s Gate: 00190 Helsinki
Military Museum of Manegè: Iso Mustasaari c 77, 00190 Helsinki
Senate Square: 00170 Helsinki
Submarine Vesikko: B 79, 00190 Helsinki
Suomenlinna Brewery: Suomenlinna C 1, 00190 Helsinki
Suomenlinna Toy Museum: Suomenlinna C 66, 00190 Helsinki
Swedish Theatre: Pohjoisesplanadi, Helsinki
Hero Image: © syolacan/Istock
