Rice is cooked in a wide-brimmed pot called a hagama and mixed with rice vinegar to make pure white sushi rice. The streamlined shape of the nigiri sushi proclaims the chef’s pedigree. Sushi rice is an essential part of sushi, the chef explains, as the sourness gives the flavour presence. Careful attention is paid to temperature, to harmonise with the flavour of each sushi topping. The chef’s individuality and character inform every nigiri he crafts. The white interior and hinoki cypress counter give a crisp, dignified beauty. Integrity runs through everything here.