Before all else, the aim is to entertain. Diners get a full view of the cooking area, befitting a counter kappo, as the chef’s open-hearted banter brings smiles to guests’ faces. Unstinting portions of lobster, matsutake mushrooms, crab, blowfish and other luxury foods in season ensure contentment. White rice is cooked in an old-fashioned clay hearth, known as an ‘okudo-san’, and accompanied by generous portions of the richly flavoured side dishes. ‘Tamago-kake gohan’, steamed rice topped with a raw egg, is available as a second serving.