Salvaterra Country House & SPA

There may be no country at the moment whose countryside is more packed with exquisite small hotels than that of Portugal. The inland province of Ribatejo, less than an hour’s drive up alongside the Tagus from Lisbon, is the setting for Salvaterra Country House & Spa, a hotel whose name admirably sums up the experience. It’s more a compound than simply a house, surrounded by peaceful gardens, and its suites feel impressively private, opening onto leafy terraces and decorated in a breezy contemporary-rustic style.

They’re also full of comforts, including fireplaces, bathtubs, kitchenettes, and a breakfast basket delivered fresh first thing every morning. The spa makes use of the estate’s dense gardens, with its Dutch hot tub, heated by firewood, set in the open air. Nearby is the swimming pool, also fringed with vegetation, and you could easily pass your time lounging in the gardens, in your room, and on your private terrace.

There’s plenty to do in the surrounding countryside as well, from a boat trip on the river to a horseback tour, a winery visit, even a balloon ride. And while there’s no restaurant on Salvaterra’s grounds, there’s an outdoor kitchen with a barbecue for guests’ use as well as a firepit in the garden for lounging under the stars — and there are some fine restaurants mere minutes away, in the surrounding villages and in the famous Gothic city of Santarém, another half-hour up the river.