The Gostilna na Gradu (the “restaurant at the castle”) says it all. You’d be forgiven for thinking that this was a tourist address given its location in the inner courtyard of the city’s busiest, most iconic monument, and yet the dishes here are prepared using carefully chosen Slovenian ingredients and cooked to perfection. Our favourite dishes included beef tongue with onions, a superb dish that was a lot more elaborate than that simple description suggests. The tongue is lightly brined, then smoked and served thinly sliced with turnip mousse, toasted pumpkin seeds and wild-garlic oil, as well as stewed sweet-and-sour onions.