Che fico (“what a fig”) is Italian slang for “How cool!”, an apt description of this airy, stylish space, where tables are still a hot commodity all week long. Those who don’t manage to snag a reservation may find a perch at the bar, where an impressive array of compelling cocktails features unique flavorings like green walnut or basil eau de vie. The vibe is chic, but the cooking leans rustic; start with house-made salumi or mozzarella, then proceed to hearty pastas like saffron spaghetti with 'nduja, or pizzas with puffy, blistered crusts (try the pineapple, red onion and fermented chili number). A wood-fired oven features heavily, from vegetables like charred broccolini with pecorino sardo and Calabrian chili, to whole-roasted branzino.