Palazzo Maria Formosa

A good boutique hotel strikes a balance between upending certain expectations while thoroughly fulfilling others. And a Venetian hotelier must be tempted to reject the whole ornate package of Gothic/Renaissance glamour that’s characteristic of the city. Palazzo Maria Formosa, however, chooses a route that’s more difficult, but ultimately more rewarding — crafting an atmosphere that’s thoroughly, recognizably Venetian, but with an unusual depth of character.

It begins with a 15th-century palazzo tucked between the canal and the Santa Maria Formosa square. Heroically preserved, both inside and out, it’s rich with period detail and an authenticity that can’t be faked. Visit the rooms, though, and you’ll find these antique touches comfortably coexisting with modern comforts and more than a little bit of contemporary design. As always there’s a premium placed on a view of the canal, but there’s no angle on this city that’s less than picturesque.

The hotel’s Marea Wellness spa makes much of Venice’s association with the seas. Meanwhile the daily breakfast service is a surprisingly artful affair; for lunch, dinner, and drinks there’s the Peacock Bar, named for a creature that symbolizes love, vanity, and rebirth.