In the shadow of downtown Houston right off Highway 10 is Justin Yu’s wedge of a restaurant. There’s little else in the area, but the red stop sign at the intersection is, poignantly enough, also at the front door. Counter seating is practically shoulder to shoulder, but it is a prime perch for taking in all that this welcoming restaurant has to offer. The cuisine is hard to pin down but know that everything looks simpler than it really is and is seasoned far better than you could have imagined. It's also all intended for sharing. Highlights include fried bread with tomato fondant and Gulf redfish crusted in toast and served with a fermented green garlic-green pea puree. Don’t leave without trying the warm, brûléed butter cake smeared with strawberry jam.