Alley 41 (Sichuan/Flushing)
True to its name, this Sichuan stalwart does not sit in plain sight. A short walk off Flushing’s Main Street leads to an interior that is equally unexpected: A stylish corridor of concrete, curved wood chairs and elegant panel screens. The menu, now entirely electronic, is lengthy but the glamorous photos are accurate reflections of what’s to come.
Inspector notes: "Chicken dumplings sitting in a pool of red chili sauce, and tender rolls of pork belly with sesame cold noodles are sensible starters for a meal that ramps up quite quickly thanks to a lightning-fast kitchen."
East Harbor Seafood Palace (Cantonese/Brooklyn)
Dim sum is a well-orchestrated affair, with steaming carts rolling by and waiters ferrying trays into the gold-accented dining room. Eyes can guide the ordering when it comes to the carts, stocked with authentic bites.
Inspector notes: "Highlights include the siu mai, followed by rice noodles wrapped around shrimp and doused in a sweet soy sauce."
Little Alley (Shanghainese/MEast)
Thank Chef Yuchun Cheung for brightening Murray Hill by way of authentic regional dishes from China, with an emphasis on Shanghai. This cooking is accomplished, serious and high quality, but one could still make a very enjoyable meal by just focusing on appetizers and dumplings alone.
Inspector notes: "Signatures, and fittingly so, include toothsome slices of pig’s ear seasoned with chili oil, peppercorns and cilantro for freshness."
Silver Apricot (Chinese-American/GV)
Few settings are cozier than this contemporary West Village den, which opened back in 2020 on quiet Cornelia street. The food is something of an adventure and leans on classic Chinese flavors. Think warm, flaky scallion puffs with scallion butter or spicy cumin lamb reimagined as a cold tartare.
Inspector notes: "Rice cakes channel mapo tofu but with butternut squash and chili-fermented broad beans."
Great N.Y. Noodletown (Cantonese, Chinatown)
Invite plenty of dining companions to share heaping plates of roasted meats and rice and noodle soups at this wallet-friendly treasure. Locals stream in until the 4:00 A.M. closing bell for their great Cantonese dishes—food is clearly the focus here, over the brusque service and unfussy atmosphere.
Inspector notes: "Incredible shrimp wontons, for instance, are delicate and thin; and the complex homemade e-fu noodles demonstrate technique and quality to a standout level that is rarely rivaled."