Kei for Kei Kobayashi, a chef born in Nagano, Japan, who trained with the likes of Gilles Goujon and Alain Ducasse. His father was a cook in a traditional kaiseki restaurant (where high-flying meals are served in small courses – akin to Western haute cuisine), but it was while watching a documentary on French cuisine that he found his vocation. Today, his work verges on perfection: a virtuoso blend of flavours and exquisite plating, he allows high-quality ingredients to shout their name simply and stunningly. For example, binchotan smoked royal langoustine sweet pepper seasoning or Vendée pigeon lacquered in red miso. Each dish is flawlessly crafted and supremely legible. The desserts also attain head-spinning heights of culinary excellence.