It may occupy a former asylum building, amidst the distinctive, weathered stone architecture of the capital city’s Old Town. But the mood at the Hotel du Vin Edinburgh is less mad-house and more Scottish enlightenment. There are other stylish hotels in town, but none with so light a touch — the Hotel du Vin group has a knack not only for selecting old buildings that are just unlikely enough to be interesting, but for decorating them as well, in a style that’s subtly contemporary and respectfully local.

The idea, of course, is that a good hotel room is these days rarely enough — though they are, as always, a fine start. The ten rooms in the old asylum are perhaps the more atmospheric, but those in the new wing match them in style and finish, and are equally well outfitted. The colors are suitably dark and rich, and anyone who’s spent time in Scottish hotels will likely be refreshed by the sparing use of plaid.

It’s downstairs that the other half of the Hotel du Vin & Bistro fulfills its promise. A busy and sophisticated bistro is no longer quite the Edinburgh novelty it may once have been, but its hum of sociability is a welcome balance to the cozy and romantic bedrooms above — and they’re happy to pour a dram or two if you prefer your whisky to your vin.