The monolithic structure of Therme Vals was unlike any spa I’d ever entered. Its timeless design felt as though it could have been completed yesterday, a minimalist spa carved directly into the hillside of the tiny Swiss town of Vals. Yet, a subtle detail—the iron deposits accumulating along the water taps—served as a reminder of the three decades the village has spent on the international stage. The locals have a saying to describe their home’s unlikely fame: “1000/1000/1000.”
1,000 sheep, 1,000 residents, 1,000 guest beds.
It’s a reflection of the sense of humor that defines this tight-knit mountain community, which was thrust unexpectedly into the spotlight in the '90s. These days, you can arrive after a two-hour car ride south from Zurich—a relatively recent development. Before the late 19th century, when the first major road was carved through the mountains, the people of Vals were essentially cut off from the outside world. But the town has always had its thermal waters, flowing from a warm, nutrient-rich spring. In the 1990s, nearly unanimously, the village accepted the proposal of minimalist master architect Peter Zumthor to rebuild their public baths for the 21st century. Suddenly, Vals was more than just accessible; it became a pilgrimage destination for architects and wellness seekers worldwide.
Just two years after its opening in 1996, the spa complex was placed under heritage protection. Today, it includes three MICHELIN establishments within its walls: two hotels (the Two Key 7132 Hotel and House of Architects) and one restaurant (the Two-Starred 7132 Silver). Hotel guests and diners can stroll to the thermal waters without stepping foot outside the complex, and guests at either MICHELIN-vetted hotel enjoy special, early morning and after-hours access to the baths.
Anything But a Stuffy Tourist Town
“Most guests come for the thermal spa.” It's a refrain I heard repeatedly during my visit. It’s understandable, but just scratches the surface of what this town has to offer. Vals is gorgeous all seasons, but uniquely majestic in winter: at 1,252 meters above sea level, its traditional Alpine architecture, narrow streets, and central square are surrounded by 3,000-meter-high peaks and quartzite rock formations, all dusted with snow. Postcard perfect, it's almost surreal.The town’s character also warrants mention. As a German with a taste for these kinds of luxuries, I’ve visited my fair share of small Swiss towns in the countryside. None have felt as authentic and down-to-earth as Vals. This isn’t a place that empties out during the week: people actually live here year-round, deeply involved in their small but thriving community.
While walking through the town center, I stopped by a bulletin board next to the local grocery store and browsed the listings for community activities this season (yodeling choirs, Christmas markets, community theater). Unlike any “spa town” I’ve visited, tourists were invited to join in. The village even hosts a happy hour each Friday (the Brunnen-Apéro), where locals and tourists alike mingle over a glass of white wine.
Two Exceptional Hotels, Both Within the Spa Complex
When it comes to accommodations, the stars of the show are both in the famous Therme Vals spa complex. For guests, that means convenience and special access to the baths. At both 7132 Hotel (Two MICHELIN Keys) and House of Architects (a MICHELIN-selection hotel), guests enjoy direct passage to the spa complex, as well as perks like exclusive access to the baths in the mornings (daily) and evenings (on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays). Guests can pad around in their bathrobes from their room to the spa. 7132 Hotel even features an elevator that drops you right at the spa reception—door to door service.The two hotels share the same lobby and other public spaces, but each has its own distinct character. 7132 Hotel is the more luxurious of the two, with larger rooms and a more expansive breakfast offering, served in a more intimate restaurant setting. House of Architects, on the other hand, features more compact rooms, yet they are as stylish as the name suggests. Spaces here have been designed by architectural luminaries such as Tadao Ando, Kengo Kuma, Thom Mayne, and, of course, the master of spa architecture himself: Peter Zumthor.
Editor’s note: both hotels are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Restaurant 7132 Silver: A Rare Two-Star Experience
One of only 25 restaurants in Switzerland with Two MICHELIN Stars, Restaurant 7132 Silver features an eight-course tasting menu with dishes that sound intriguing and reveal themselves as expertly harmonious. During my meal, one was Wattenmeer der Nordsee (Wadden Sea of the North Sea)—mussels with caviar and fresh jalapeño. Another was Frisch aus Japan (Fresh from Japan)—yellowtail amberjack with cucumber and shiso.The main course, from the Valser Hof (Vals Farm), consisted of Pomeranian duck with corn and blackberry. The aged duck breast was cooked to a tender, rosy pink, complemented by the contrasting textures of corn, onion, fermented blackberries, and a deeply flavorful jus. By the time dessert arrived (French pastries including canelé, macaron, and praline), I was tempted to fall happily into bed. But instead, I resisted and ventured out to enjoy exclusive nighttime access to the thermal baths. I was glad I did.
Inside the baths, silence is paramount and electronic devices are forbidden. I spent a tranquil night there, warm in the water with snow falling in the distance as steam rose into the cold night air.
How to Get to Vals
Hero image: A look at the snowy Vals scenery from the Theme Vals complex.
