St. Moritz — now a hotbed of furs and slopes and lots of champagne — was nothing before Johannes Badrutt. He made this town when he persuaded a bunch of English tourists to try skiing. And today his legacy lives on as the definition of wintry European glamour: Badrutt’s Palace Hotel.

This is a castle, high on the hills, where the beautiful people converge for the après ski, and where fondue is most passé. The best rooms sport big beds and walls cushioned with silk and leather, à la Fred and Ginger movies. There’s a spa, of course, and a long list of restaurants (of which more later). But above all there’s the reflected glow of the glamour that comes simply from being at Badrutt’s.

Badrutt’s, after all, was the originator of the luxuriant tailgate party; spruce young men who would show up in sledges with vodka, paté, and caviar. The suites overlooking the lake are the most coveted. Tip: order your ski pass on arrival from the exceptionally mindful concierges, and it’ll be ready the following morning. Also, be sure to book your massage well before booking your room (and send your children to the Acapulco snack bar, with its huge indoor pool, cave and waterfall).

Though Badrutt’s boasts a high and mighty French Le Restaurant (jacket required), the place to eat is the 1658 farmhouse, converted into a multitude of pizzerias and bistros. However, in the evening the Renaissance Bar is still the town’s hotspot, darkly lit, with navy blue cushions to sink into and a roaring fireplace. Mario, the barman, shakes up some killer drinks, and you will never find more fashionable company with which to share your mulled cider. Meanwhile, the more understated crowd heads to the equally priced, but more subtle Kulm.

How to get there: Badrutt’s Palace is approximately a 2.5-hour drive from Zürich Airport (ZRH) and a 5-minute drive from private charter Samedan Airport (SMV).