The annual MICHELIN Guide Nordic Countries Star Revelation is set to take place on Monday 4th July at 6pm (CET). It is then that we will find out which restaurants have been awarded Michelin Stars, Bib Gourmands and Michelin Green Stars for 2022.
Before then we have our final set of live additions, covered over two articles this month. The first focused on Denmark, while this second article focuses on Finland, as well as containing further updates for Norway and Sweden.
You'll find the newly recommended restaurants listed amongst the current selection, both on the Michelin Guide website (Denmark/Finland/Iceland/Norway/Sweden) and on the iOS and Android apps: they’re easy to spot, as they’re highlighted by a ‘New’ symbol.
In an age where many young chefs think the wheel needs either re-inventing or at the very least some serious reimagining, it’s refreshing and reassuring to come across a kitchen where respect for the ingredients – in this case, fish and shellfish – comes before everything else. The ingredients are not beaten into submission nor asked to do something against their will; your taste buds won’t be asked to consider challenging combinations of flavours or unusual textures. You sense that the starting point for every dish here is “how can we demonstrate just how good this lobster, cod or Dover sole really is?”
What is it about eating in a converted warehouse – in this case in a corner of Katajanokka harbour – that’s so appealing? Is it the link to the past? The palpable sense of history and toil? Or is it the feeling of rejuvenation and rebirth? And what a great name for a restaurant – think ‘Shelter’ and you surely think of succour, of sanctuary and safety, of refuge and retreat.
The menus here, both set and à la carte, are not overly long, yet are very appealing and offer plenty of balance. And there can’t be many more reassuring and appealing sights than seeing “fish of the day” on the menu of a harbourside restaurant? The focus in the open kitchen is on seasonality and their dishes are prepared with care, skill and precision. While their presentation is also strong, they do, most importantly, deliver plenty of layers of flavour. The service team share the kitchen’s enthusiasm and eagerness to please, ensuring that everyone leaves here feeling that they’ve had a great night out.
NORWAY
We already unveiled five new additions for Norway last month, but here we have four more...
BOEN GÅRD, Tveit
Set in a magical pastoral setting by the river, the location is a chef’s fantasy. The gardens supply herbs and veg, the orchard provides apples and pears, and salmon comes from the river.
Jossa Mat & Drikke, Trondheim
Delightfully fresh, unfussy Norwegian cooking is on the table at this bright restaurant. It's run with the same sustainable ethos as sister Credo and the cheery staff clearly love what they do.
Moon, Bergen
French twins showcase flavourful French food and fine wines in this homely little bistro in the centre of Bergen: Jules cooks up a storm in the kitchen, while Nicolas runs the service with pride.
Sabi Enso, Stavanger
Sit downstairs for a huge choice of authentic Japanese dishes, or upstairs for the chef’s omakase menu served at the 14-seater counter. Some of the locally sourced seafood is aged in-house.
SWEDEN
We also revealed five new Swedish additions back in April. These are now joined by five more.
Boo Natur, Hjortkvarn
This very remotely set stone cottage belongs to Boo Castle and its décor has a fitting hunting theme. That theme extends to the plate, with many of the meats coming from the Estate.
Human, Gothenburg
Accomplished, new Nordic cooking leads the way at this modern-cum-vintage restaurant. It sits in a quiet residential street behind the 17th Skansen Kronan fortress, close to picturesque Haga.
Knystaforsen, Rydöbruk
An old sawmill is the location of both home and work to this friendly Danish couple. Local meats, game, fish and foraged plants feature in dishes cooked over an open fire.
Koizen, Gothenburg
Swedish-born Alven Chu honed his craft in California, Tokyo and New York before opening this intimate omakase restaurant in Gothenburg. Be sure to go for the sake pairings!
vRÅ, Gothenburg
Contemporary fusion cooking sees Nordic and Japanese influences combine at this imposing former post office. It might now be a glamorous, contemporary restaurant but the 1920s cashier booths remain.
