Hotel Boutique Castillo Rojo

The Castillo Rojo is a landmark you might already recognize if you’ve ever been to Santiago. Not only is it an eye-catcher of a building — stately and vermillion-hued — but it’s located a block away from Pablo Neruda’s one-time urban residence, La Chascona, in the lovely and tourist-popular neighborhood of Bellavista. It’s the kind of building you’d stand in front of and wonder about, looking it up on your guidebook map, probably without a satisfying resolution. But that was up until recently, when the house was turned into the Castillo Rojo Boutique Hotel.

The modern restoration took place almost exactly 90 years after the building, which dates from 1923, was designed as the private home of a wealthy family; the Castillo Rojo later served as an artist’s residence. Much of the original charm remains — picture romantic old fireplaces, rustic woodwork, twenties-era light fixtures, an utter lack of elevators — but the 2013 update brought contemporary comforts to nineteen guest rooms, plus a wine bar and a pair of restaurants. You’ll have to take the stairs up to your temporary abode, which adds to the ambience, provided that you’re not totally debilitated by jet lag. Standard rooms are quaint and petite, with 500 thread-count cotton sheets and custom-made pillow top beds, and old-fashioned details from writing desks and vaulted ceilings to framed drawings, dark wood armoires, and elegant wallpaper. Suites have separate seating areas. All room categories include breakfast.

At night, choose between Petanque, the French brasserie-style eatery, or Cabildo, a classic Chilean restaurant. Alternatively, just sit out on Castillo Rojo’s terrace, drinking a glass of locally produced Carménère and watching the world go by in the plaza below. The location really couldn’t be better, Neruda or not: you’re steps from the funicular that travels to the top of nearby Cerro San Cristobál, where you’ll take in sweeping views of the Chilean capital and the spectacular Andean scenery that surrounds it. Welcome back to Santiago, Castillo Rojo — we’re glad to see you back on the map.