House of Jasmines

There’s a certain old-world charm to Argentina’s northwest, particularly in and around Salta. But while the town’s colonial architecture and folkloric street musicians draw a steady stream of visitors, the region’s true mystique is found outside the city limits, in the dramatic foothills of the Andes, where rocky cliffs are the color of red clay and the sky is perpetually blue. This is where the House of Jasmines, a boutique estancia with just seven rooms, welcomes an easygoing clientele who aren’t in any rush to catch a plane back to Buenos Aires.

It’s a traditional ranch, yes, but with a sophisticated twist: the grounds contain a large spa with a Turkish bath, for example, and the linens are both hand-embroidered and 400-thread. The interiors of the hundred-year-old posada have been restored and redone with a light, contemporary touch — think pared-down, cozy chic decor, and a palette of crisp white, cream, beige, and chocolate — but throughout the hotel you’ll notice details that tip their hats to rustic romance, from the original tile floors and wooden shutters to pieces like four—poster beds and animal skins. Large suites offer amply sized living areas and private entrances to the great outdoors; standard rooms feature canopied king-sized beds.

But this isn’t the kind of place where you want to hide away in your room. Both the living room, enlivened with indigenous fabrics and heated by a crackling fireplace, and the airy white “winter garden” are inviting locales where you could spend an entire afternoon with a book and a glass of wine. The House of Jasmines is a warm, relaxed place where time practically stands still, and while the kitchen resembles that of any ranch, with homemade bread always baking in the oven and traditional, sit-down meals, no one cares if you’d rather sleep through breakfast. Just don’t sleep through lunch — an elaborate Argentine asado (barbecue), especially when served al fresco in the garden, is a culinary experience that you won’t soon forget.

Please note: House of Jasmines is open seasonally from late October thru late April.

How to get there: House of Jasmines is located about 10 miles from the Salta airport. Transfers can be arranged for $46, tax included, each way.