The name combines the first character in ‘Yasaka’, where the restaurant is, and the character for ‘fun’, which is what the proprietors want you to have. With a temperament of a seasoned artisan, the owner-chef wields his wok in the kitchen while the proprietress, affectionately called okaasan (mother) by the geiko and maiko who dine here, attends to customers. The fare, a lightly seasoned version of Kyoto Chinese, eschews oil and garlic so that the smell won’t cling to kimonos.