Godan, for which the restaurant is named, refers to the second half of a tea ceremony: after a final cup of dark tea, the tea master and guests linger to chat over sake and snacks. This is the mood the owner-chef aims to recreate. Seasonal ingredients are used because they naturally accord with the body’s needs, which also shift with the seasons. Baked sesame tofu, made with generous amounts of kudzu vine, is a perennial favourite; corn is kneaded into it in summer and turnip in winter, imparting seasonal flavours.