Next to the small Canal de Goulaine, this white building, once a bar and inn, has a refined contemporary interior and pleasant terrace-garden for fine weather. Having plied his trade abroad, chef Mathieu Corbineau now navigates between rather traditional recipes and more contemporary influences: crispy chicken with tandoori spices, carrot, cumin and kumquat sabayon; herb-crusted catch of the day, cereal risotto, citrus butter; gariguette strawberry, yuzu cream, frosted marshmallow gariguette, Montélimar nougat ice cream. An affordable set menu at lunchtime, and a wine list that gives Muscadet top billing.