Deep in the countryside, on a cobbled section of the fabled Paris–Roubaix cycling race route, L'Arbre is run by flamboyant chef Benoît Bernard. After La Laiterie, he has changed gear with this contemporary, hearty and fresh regional cuisine. The tempting lunchtime menu draws regulars; à la carte, sea urchins and langoustines are lovingly prepared. Cream of watercress soup and poached Cadoret oysters, John Dory with mussel risotto and, for dessert, his take on the classic meringue merveilleux. Full of wit and mirth, the chef, who hails from northern France, is on first-name terms with his customers in this cheerful and laid-back place that has lost none of its authentic character.