Chef Susumu Ii is no stranger to the SoCal dining scene and his sushiya flaunts an equally fluent repertoire. The space is chic and well designed; and the kaiseki-style menu, complete with Japanese-imported fish and local ingredients, is a tribute to the seasons.

These plates are meticulously prepared and enjoyably nuanced. The Bizen option may commence with the likes of tofu topped with Bafun uni and yuba, followed by a procession of cold summer bites, sashimi, and silky ankimo with nukazuke pickles. Peak-season belt fish may then be presented with yamaimo and a dashi-simmered tomato. Nigiri, like wild flounder, hagashi toro, and baby sea bream, are crafted with care; and desserts, like rum raisin ice cream, are a wonderful way to seal the second chapter.