Chef Juanlu Fernández, a fan of slow cooking over a wood fire, defines his style as “rearguard avant-garde”, an expression that highlights his personal, somewhat crazy interpretation of cooking which is based around classic French cuisine but which also showcases the best Andalucian ingredients. In his attractive restaurant, designed by Mexican architect Jean Porsche, he aims to personalise the experience by involving guests in the creative process (the kitchen is visible from the dining room) through two tasting menus that define his cuisine to perfection: “Duxende”, which is described as the restaurant’s soul, and “El Festín”, a journey across the senses, enabling guests to discover the region’s history and recipes. As a result, seemingly humble dishes (such as the Atlantic sea bass stew “a la roteña” and the cuttlefish “a la cochambrosa”) are transformed by stellar technique and premium ingredients. The wines and sherries of Jerez take centre stage in the wine pairing options, as well as featuring prominently on the cocktail list.