For the last decade, the city has feasted on Alon Shaya’s hummus served with puffy pita bread charred in a wood-burning oven. Creamy and smooth, this time-tested combination is immensely satisfying. At Saba, which means “grandfather” in Hebrew, blue crab and lemon butter take this classic dish to another level. Where has this twist been all this time? Much of the menu at this expansive restaurant in Uptown reads straightforward—pickles, dips, salads—but what lands on the table is vibrant and refreshing. Chef Shaya’s operations now stretch to other parts of the country, but expansion has not watered down his efforts. The fundamentals here remain in good order, down to the falafel, which sports a crackly crust and a tender, bright green center.